Whether it\u2019s part of a service or to fit a new unit, knowing how to replace a crankset is a useful skill.<\/p>\n
In this in-depth step-by-step tutorial, we\u2019ll talk you through the process of removal and refitting for the four major types of crankset \u2013 Shimano, self-extracting cranksets (SRAM, FSA), Campagnolo and square-taper.<\/p>\n Ss Flange Nut
If you\u2019re removing the crankset to replace the bottom bracket, it\u2019s worth double-checking the bottom bracket you\u2019re going to fit is compatible with your crankset.<\/p>\n<\/iframe>\nHow to fit and replace a Shimano crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Shimano cranksets are pretty straightforward to remove and install.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Most modern Shimano road, mountain and gravel bike cranksets are comprised of two pieces, with the spindle bonded to the driveside arm. These are known collectively as Hollowtech II cranksets.<\/p>\n
The non-driveside crank arm is fitted to the protruding portion of the spindle. This is clamped in place using an integrated clamp. A similar arrangement is used on Promax and FSA Gravity cranksets.<\/p>\n
Shimano still produces three-piece Octalink and square-taper cranksets. The fitting removal process for these is covered later in this guide.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The Shimano Hollowtech tool is proprietary.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\n5mm hex key<\/li>\nTorque wrench and 5mm hex socket<\/li>\nShimano Hollowtech 2 installation tool<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\nFlathead screwdriver (optional)<\/li>\nGrease<\/li>\nRag<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nHow to remove a Shimano crankset<\/h3>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Shifting the chain into the smallest chainring will make removal easier.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Shift the chain into the small chainring and smallest cassette cog. You could consider manually unshipping the chain and gently laying it to rest around the bottom bracket shell.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Loosen the bolts a little at a time.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Evenly loosen the two 5mm pinch bolts. Loosen these off a little at a time \u2013 don\u2019t undo one fully then the other. They don\u2019t need to be fully undone.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Loosen the cap.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Using a Hollowtech 2 installation tool, undo the Hollowtech cap (Shimano refers to this as the \u2018crank arm fixing screw\u2019 in its technical documentation).<\/p>\n
This screw is proprietary with an eight-point star shape. Lift up the small plastic catch (Shimano refers to this as a \u2018plate\u2019) that sits between between the two pinch bolts.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The crank will then come off.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
The non-driveside crank should now remove by hand, although you may need to give it a light tap with a rubber mallet from the inside of the crank arm. Should this be the case, we\u2019d recommend placing a rag over the inside of the crank arm for protection.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Watch out for any dust seals.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Take note of any dust seals that may come off with the arms.<\/p>\nHow to refit a Shimano crankset<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The various pieces that comprise a Shimano crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Refitting is the opposite of removal, but there are some important notes to be aware of.<\/p>\n
To start, it\u2019s worth giving the crankset a thorough clean before refitting.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019re using Muc-Off Bio Grease in this particular example.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Next, apply a thin layer of grease to the crank spindle, especially where it meets the bearings.<\/p>\n
We\u2019d recommend Shimano Premium Bearing green grease for best results, although you can use alternatives.<\/p>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you pass the chain over the spindle.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Feed the driveside crank arm through the bottom bracket shell, taking care to replace any relevant spacers or dust seals.<\/p>\n
You may need to use a rubber mallet to fully seat the arm. Again, consider covering the face of the crankset with a rag.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Look out for the cut-out.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Grease the splines of the spindle and install the non-driveside crank arm.<\/p>\n
There\u2019s a mark on the opposite side of the spindle with a hole to ensure the non-driveside crankarm is perfectly fitted 180 degrees apart from the driveside.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t over-tighten the cap.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Grease the threads of the Hollowtech cap and install it into the non-driveside crank arm. Shimano quotes a low 0.7-1.5Nm torque.<\/p>\n
If you over-tighten the cap, the crank arm will be pushed too far into the bearings, resulting in notchy operation. You can inspect your work by rotating the cranks to check if it\u2019s too tight or too loose.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure the plate is in the correct orientation.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Press down the plate and equally tighten the two pinch bolts to 12-15Nm.<\/p>\n
Before fitting the chain onto the chainrings, inspect for any play.<\/p>\nHow to replace a self-extracting crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing and refitting a SRAM Rival eTap AXS crankset in this example.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Many cranksets, such as those from SRAM and FSA, use a self-extracting design.<\/p>\n
This enables the crankset to be removed without a crank puller.<\/p>\n
The main crank bolt that secures the crankset to the spindle essentially functions as a crank puller when the bolt is loosened, in combination with a retaining ring. Therefore, only one tool is required to remove the crankset.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You\u2019ll want a good-quality 8mm hex key with lots of leverage.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nHex keys<\/li>\nTorque wrench and appropriate socket<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Loosen the main crank bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
There can be variations in which crank arm the main crank bolt is located. On SRAM DUB cranksets, it is on the driveside.<\/p>\n
Regardless of which side it is on, begin by loosening the crank bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long ratchet or breaker bar could be the friend you need.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
The crank bolt can take quite some force to undo (especially on SRAM DUB cranksets), so we\u2019d recommend keeping the chain on the big chainring to avoid skinning your knuckles. We\u2019d also advise performing this step with the bike on the ground so gravity helps you.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> 101 uses of a toe strap\u2026<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If you\u2019re finding it difficult to loosen, consider using a long ratchet handle or breaker bar for additional purchase.<\/p>\n
You could consider using a toe strap to secure the non-driveside crank arm to the non-driveside chainstay.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Heave ho!<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Once the bolt breaks free, loosen until the arm slides off and away from the spindle. There will be a period when there is more resistance in turning the bolt.\u00a0 This is typical \u2013 keep going until the crank arm is free.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you don\u2019t lose any spacers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Take note of any spacers, wavey washers or dust seals that come off with the crank arm.<\/p>\n
Remove the opposing crank arm \u2013 it may require some persuasion with a rubber mallet.<\/p>\nHow to refit a self-extracting crankset<\/h3>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Grease the spindle.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply grease to the spindle, the splines of the crank arm and on the inside of the threads.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> In goes the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the crank arm that doesn\u2019t contain the main crank bolt \u2013 on this SRAM Rival crank, this is the non-driveside.<\/p>\n
You may need to use a rubber mallet to tap it into place. Make sure you refit any washers or seals.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you fit the driveside 180 degrees from the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the opposing crank arm. It can be a little fiddly making sure it is correctly positioned 180 degrees from the non-driveside. We\u2019d recommend holding onto the arm as you initially tighten the main crank bolt.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Tighten the crank bolt to the manufacturer\u2019s recommended spec \u2013 a high 48-54Nm for this SRAM DUB crankset.<\/p>\n
Inspect for play.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Be careful to avoid rounding the small 2mm bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll need to adjust the preload if there is any play. Loosen the preload adjuster bolt and turn in the direction of the + arrow. Tighten until the edges of the preload collar touch.<\/p>\n
Do not over-tighten the preload adjuster, because you risk damaging the bottom bracket bearing. Inspect for play.<\/p>\nHow to remove a Campagnolo UltraTorque crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Campagnolo cranksets differ from other manufacturers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
There are two types of Campagnolo cranks \u2013 UltraTorque and PowerTorque.<\/p>\n
The PowerTorque standard is now largely defunct, so we\u2019ll be concentrating on UltraTorque here.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The system uses a Hirth joint.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo cranks differ from other manufacturers in that they are a two-piece system. The spindle uses a Hirth joint \u2013 this sees the spindle split in the middle with a series of interlocking teeth.<\/p>\n
Unlike other manufacturers, where the bottom bracket bearings are a separate unit, bearings on Campagnolo systems are pressed directly onto the spindle.<\/p>\n
Like a self-extracting design, a single crank bolt holds both arms together.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long-reach 10mm hex key is the only tool that may be unusual.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nNeedlenose pliers<\/li>\nLong-reach 10mm hex key<\/li>\nTorque wrench and 10mm socket<\/li>\nGrease<\/li>\nRag<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Remove the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll first need to remove the bearing clip retainer, which is located on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Use needlenose pliers to lift one side of the retainer, before removing the other.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The 10mm hex bolt hides inside the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Loosen the 10mm hex bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Take care when removing the bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The crank arm may need some wiggling to remove. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Make sure the wave washer comes off with the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
The 10mm crank bolt is located on the non-driveside on current 12-speed Campagnolo cranksets, as well as Ekar. However, it\u2019s located on the driveside for older generations.<\/p>\n
Loosen the bolt with a long-reach 10mm hex key.<\/p>\n
Note Super-Record cranks use a reverse-threaded titanium bolt.<\/p>\n
Once loosened, remove both crank arms.<\/p>\nHow to refit a Campagnolo crankset<\/h2>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Give everything a clean prior to refitting.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply a thin layer of grease to the spindle and the crank bolt \u2013 we recommend Campagnolo Professional Grease.<\/p>\n
Install the driveside crank arm and then the non-driveside. Push the two arms together so that the geared teeth of the Hirth joint engage together. This can be fiddly.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You should feel the geared teeth contact each other from inside the bottom bracket shell.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the 10mm hex bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo recommends a 42-60Nm torque \u2013 we\u2019d advise aiming towards the lower end of the scale, while making sure the crankset is free of play.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t forget the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the bearing clip on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Locate one hole, then use a needlenose plier to guide the clip into the second hole.<\/p>\nHow to replace a three-piece crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing this square-taper crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Three-piece cranksets comprise of two crank arms and a separate bottom bracket unit, which contains the crank spindle. There are two types of interface \u2013 square-taper or splined. A number of splined interfaces exist but Octalink and ISIS are the most common.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n Most modern Shimano road, mountain and gravel bike cranksets are comprised of two pieces, with the spindle bonded to the driveside arm. These are known collectively as Hollowtech II cranksets.<\/p>\n The non-driveside crank arm is fitted to the protruding portion of the spindle. This is clamped in place using an integrated clamp. A similar arrangement is used on Promax and FSA Gravity cranksets.<\/p>\n Shimano still produces three-piece Octalink and square-taper cranksets. The fitting removal process for these is covered later in this guide.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The Shimano Hollowtech tool is proprietary.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\n5mm hex key<\/li>\nTorque wrench and 5mm hex socket<\/li>\nShimano Hollowtech 2 installation tool<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\nFlathead screwdriver (optional)<\/li>\nGrease<\/li>\nRag<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nHow to remove a Shimano crankset<\/h3>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Shifting the chain into the smallest chainring will make removal easier.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Shift the chain into the small chainring and smallest cassette cog. You could consider manually unshipping the chain and gently laying it to rest around the bottom bracket shell.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Loosen the bolts a little at a time.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Evenly loosen the two 5mm pinch bolts. Loosen these off a little at a time \u2013 don\u2019t undo one fully then the other. They don\u2019t need to be fully undone.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Loosen the cap.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Using a Hollowtech 2 installation tool, undo the Hollowtech cap (Shimano refers to this as the \u2018crank arm fixing screw\u2019 in its technical documentation).<\/p>\n
This screw is proprietary with an eight-point star shape. Lift up the small plastic catch (Shimano refers to this as a \u2018plate\u2019) that sits between between the two pinch bolts.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The crank will then come off.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
The non-driveside crank should now remove by hand, although you may need to give it a light tap with a rubber mallet from the inside of the crank arm. Should this be the case, we\u2019d recommend placing a rag over the inside of the crank arm for protection.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Watch out for any dust seals.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Take note of any dust seals that may come off with the arms.<\/p>\nHow to refit a Shimano crankset<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The various pieces that comprise a Shimano crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Refitting is the opposite of removal, but there are some important notes to be aware of.<\/p>\n
To start, it\u2019s worth giving the crankset a thorough clean before refitting.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019re using Muc-Off Bio Grease in this particular example.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Next, apply a thin layer of grease to the crank spindle, especially where it meets the bearings.<\/p>\n
We\u2019d recommend Shimano Premium Bearing green grease for best results, although you can use alternatives.<\/p>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you pass the chain over the spindle.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Feed the driveside crank arm through the bottom bracket shell, taking care to replace any relevant spacers or dust seals.<\/p>\n
You may need to use a rubber mallet to fully seat the arm. Again, consider covering the face of the crankset with a rag.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Look out for the cut-out.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Grease the splines of the spindle and install the non-driveside crank arm.<\/p>\n
There\u2019s a mark on the opposite side of the spindle with a hole to ensure the non-driveside crankarm is perfectly fitted 180 degrees apart from the driveside.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t over-tighten the cap.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Grease the threads of the Hollowtech cap and install it into the non-driveside crank arm. Shimano quotes a low 0.7-1.5Nm torque.<\/p>\n
If you over-tighten the cap, the crank arm will be pushed too far into the bearings, resulting in notchy operation. You can inspect your work by rotating the cranks to check if it\u2019s too tight or too loose.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure the plate is in the correct orientation.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Press down the plate and equally tighten the two pinch bolts to 12-15Nm.<\/p>\n
Before fitting the chain onto the chainrings, inspect for any play.<\/p>\nHow to replace a self-extracting crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing and refitting a SRAM Rival eTap AXS crankset in this example.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Many cranksets, such as those from SRAM and FSA, use a self-extracting design.<\/p>\n
This enables the crankset to be removed without a crank puller.<\/p>\n
The main crank bolt that secures the crankset to the spindle essentially functions as a crank puller when the bolt is loosened, in combination with a retaining ring. Therefore, only one tool is required to remove the crankset.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You\u2019ll want a good-quality 8mm hex key with lots of leverage.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nHex keys<\/li>\nTorque wrench and appropriate socket<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Loosen the main crank bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
There can be variations in which crank arm the main crank bolt is located. On SRAM DUB cranksets, it is on the driveside.<\/p>\n
Regardless of which side it is on, begin by loosening the crank bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long ratchet or breaker bar could be the friend you need.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
The crank bolt can take quite some force to undo (especially on SRAM DUB cranksets), so we\u2019d recommend keeping the chain on the big chainring to avoid skinning your knuckles. We\u2019d also advise performing this step with the bike on the ground so gravity helps you.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> 101 uses of a toe strap\u2026<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If you\u2019re finding it difficult to loosen, consider using a long ratchet handle or breaker bar for additional purchase.<\/p>\n
You could consider using a toe strap to secure the non-driveside crank arm to the non-driveside chainstay.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Heave ho!<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Once the bolt breaks free, loosen until the arm slides off and away from the spindle. There will be a period when there is more resistance in turning the bolt.\u00a0 This is typical \u2013 keep going until the crank arm is free.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you don\u2019t lose any spacers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Take note of any spacers, wavey washers or dust seals that come off with the crank arm.<\/p>\n
Remove the opposing crank arm \u2013 it may require some persuasion with a rubber mallet.<\/p>\nHow to refit a self-extracting crankset<\/h3>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Grease the spindle.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply grease to the spindle, the splines of the crank arm and on the inside of the threads.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> In goes the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the crank arm that doesn\u2019t contain the main crank bolt \u2013 on this SRAM Rival crank, this is the non-driveside.<\/p>\n
You may need to use a rubber mallet to tap it into place. Make sure you refit any washers or seals.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you fit the driveside 180 degrees from the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the opposing crank arm. It can be a little fiddly making sure it is correctly positioned 180 degrees from the non-driveside. We\u2019d recommend holding onto the arm as you initially tighten the main crank bolt.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Tighten the crank bolt to the manufacturer\u2019s recommended spec \u2013 a high 48-54Nm for this SRAM DUB crankset.<\/p>\n
Inspect for play.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Be careful to avoid rounding the small 2mm bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll need to adjust the preload if there is any play. Loosen the preload adjuster bolt and turn in the direction of the + arrow. Tighten until the edges of the preload collar touch.<\/p>\n
Do not over-tighten the preload adjuster, because you risk damaging the bottom bracket bearing. Inspect for play.<\/p>\nHow to remove a Campagnolo UltraTorque crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Campagnolo cranksets differ from other manufacturers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
There are two types of Campagnolo cranks \u2013 UltraTorque and PowerTorque.<\/p>\n
The PowerTorque standard is now largely defunct, so we\u2019ll be concentrating on UltraTorque here.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The system uses a Hirth joint.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo cranks differ from other manufacturers in that they are a two-piece system. The spindle uses a Hirth joint \u2013 this sees the spindle split in the middle with a series of interlocking teeth.<\/p>\n
Unlike other manufacturers, where the bottom bracket bearings are a separate unit, bearings on Campagnolo systems are pressed directly onto the spindle.<\/p>\n
Like a self-extracting design, a single crank bolt holds both arms together.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long-reach 10mm hex key is the only tool that may be unusual.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nNeedlenose pliers<\/li>\nLong-reach 10mm hex key<\/li>\nTorque wrench and 10mm socket<\/li>\nGrease<\/li>\nRag<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Remove the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll first need to remove the bearing clip retainer, which is located on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Use needlenose pliers to lift one side of the retainer, before removing the other.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The 10mm hex bolt hides inside the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Loosen the 10mm hex bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Take care when removing the bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The crank arm may need some wiggling to remove. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Make sure the wave washer comes off with the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
The 10mm crank bolt is located on the non-driveside on current 12-speed Campagnolo cranksets, as well as Ekar. However, it\u2019s located on the driveside for older generations.<\/p>\n
Loosen the bolt with a long-reach 10mm hex key.<\/p>\n
Note Super-Record cranks use a reverse-threaded titanium bolt.<\/p>\n
Once loosened, remove both crank arms.<\/p>\nHow to refit a Campagnolo crankset<\/h2>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Give everything a clean prior to refitting.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply a thin layer of grease to the spindle and the crank bolt \u2013 we recommend Campagnolo Professional Grease.<\/p>\n
Install the driveside crank arm and then the non-driveside. Push the two arms together so that the geared teeth of the Hirth joint engage together. This can be fiddly.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You should feel the geared teeth contact each other from inside the bottom bracket shell.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the 10mm hex bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo recommends a 42-60Nm torque \u2013 we\u2019d advise aiming towards the lower end of the scale, while making sure the crankset is free of play.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t forget the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the bearing clip on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Locate one hole, then use a needlenose plier to guide the clip into the second hole.<\/p>\nHow to replace a three-piece crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing this square-taper crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Three-piece cranksets comprise of two crank arms and a separate bottom bracket unit, which contains the crank spindle. There are two types of interface \u2013 square-taper or splined. A number of splined interfaces exist but Octalink and ISIS are the most common.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n Shift the chain into the small chainring and smallest cassette cog. You could consider manually unshipping the chain and gently laying it to rest around the bottom bracket shell.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Loosen the bolts a little at a time.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Evenly loosen the two 5mm pinch bolts. Loosen these off a little at a time \u2013 don\u2019t undo one fully then the other. They don\u2019t need to be fully undone.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Loosen the cap.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Using a Hollowtech 2 installation tool, undo the Hollowtech cap (Shimano refers to this as the \u2018crank arm fixing screw\u2019 in its technical documentation).<\/p>\n
This screw is proprietary with an eight-point star shape. Lift up the small plastic catch (Shimano refers to this as a \u2018plate\u2019) that sits between between the two pinch bolts.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The crank will then come off.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
The non-driveside crank should now remove by hand, although you may need to give it a light tap with a rubber mallet from the inside of the crank arm. Should this be the case, we\u2019d recommend placing a rag over the inside of the crank arm for protection.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Watch out for any dust seals.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Take note of any dust seals that may come off with the arms.<\/p>\nHow to refit a Shimano crankset<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The various pieces that comprise a Shimano crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Refitting is the opposite of removal, but there are some important notes to be aware of.<\/p>\n
To start, it\u2019s worth giving the crankset a thorough clean before refitting.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019re using Muc-Off Bio Grease in this particular example.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Next, apply a thin layer of grease to the crank spindle, especially where it meets the bearings.<\/p>\n
We\u2019d recommend Shimano Premium Bearing green grease for best results, although you can use alternatives.<\/p>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you pass the chain over the spindle.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Feed the driveside crank arm through the bottom bracket shell, taking care to replace any relevant spacers or dust seals.<\/p>\n
You may need to use a rubber mallet to fully seat the arm. Again, consider covering the face of the crankset with a rag.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Look out for the cut-out.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Grease the splines of the spindle and install the non-driveside crank arm.<\/p>\n
There\u2019s a mark on the opposite side of the spindle with a hole to ensure the non-driveside crankarm is perfectly fitted 180 degrees apart from the driveside.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t over-tighten the cap.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Grease the threads of the Hollowtech cap and install it into the non-driveside crank arm. Shimano quotes a low 0.7-1.5Nm torque.<\/p>\n
If you over-tighten the cap, the crank arm will be pushed too far into the bearings, resulting in notchy operation. You can inspect your work by rotating the cranks to check if it\u2019s too tight or too loose.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure the plate is in the correct orientation.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Press down the plate and equally tighten the two pinch bolts to 12-15Nm.<\/p>\n
Before fitting the chain onto the chainrings, inspect for any play.<\/p>\nHow to replace a self-extracting crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing and refitting a SRAM Rival eTap AXS crankset in this example.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Many cranksets, such as those from SRAM and FSA, use a self-extracting design.<\/p>\n
This enables the crankset to be removed without a crank puller.<\/p>\n
The main crank bolt that secures the crankset to the spindle essentially functions as a crank puller when the bolt is loosened, in combination with a retaining ring. Therefore, only one tool is required to remove the crankset.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You\u2019ll want a good-quality 8mm hex key with lots of leverage.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nHex keys<\/li>\nTorque wrench and appropriate socket<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Loosen the main crank bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
There can be variations in which crank arm the main crank bolt is located. On SRAM DUB cranksets, it is on the driveside.<\/p>\n
Regardless of which side it is on, begin by loosening the crank bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long ratchet or breaker bar could be the friend you need.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
The crank bolt can take quite some force to undo (especially on SRAM DUB cranksets), so we\u2019d recommend keeping the chain on the big chainring to avoid skinning your knuckles. We\u2019d also advise performing this step with the bike on the ground so gravity helps you.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> 101 uses of a toe strap\u2026<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If you\u2019re finding it difficult to loosen, consider using a long ratchet handle or breaker bar for additional purchase.<\/p>\n
You could consider using a toe strap to secure the non-driveside crank arm to the non-driveside chainstay.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Heave ho!<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Once the bolt breaks free, loosen until the arm slides off and away from the spindle. There will be a period when there is more resistance in turning the bolt.\u00a0 This is typical \u2013 keep going until the crank arm is free.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you don\u2019t lose any spacers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Take note of any spacers, wavey washers or dust seals that come off with the crank arm.<\/p>\n
Remove the opposing crank arm \u2013 it may require some persuasion with a rubber mallet.<\/p>\nHow to refit a self-extracting crankset<\/h3>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Grease the spindle.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply grease to the spindle, the splines of the crank arm and on the inside of the threads.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> In goes the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the crank arm that doesn\u2019t contain the main crank bolt \u2013 on this SRAM Rival crank, this is the non-driveside.<\/p>\n
You may need to use a rubber mallet to tap it into place. Make sure you refit any washers or seals.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you fit the driveside 180 degrees from the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the opposing crank arm. It can be a little fiddly making sure it is correctly positioned 180 degrees from the non-driveside. We\u2019d recommend holding onto the arm as you initially tighten the main crank bolt.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Tighten the crank bolt to the manufacturer\u2019s recommended spec \u2013 a high 48-54Nm for this SRAM DUB crankset.<\/p>\n
Inspect for play.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Be careful to avoid rounding the small 2mm bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll need to adjust the preload if there is any play. Loosen the preload adjuster bolt and turn in the direction of the + arrow. Tighten until the edges of the preload collar touch.<\/p>\n
Do not over-tighten the preload adjuster, because you risk damaging the bottom bracket bearing. Inspect for play.<\/p>\nHow to remove a Campagnolo UltraTorque crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Campagnolo cranksets differ from other manufacturers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
There are two types of Campagnolo cranks \u2013 UltraTorque and PowerTorque.<\/p>\n
The PowerTorque standard is now largely defunct, so we\u2019ll be concentrating on UltraTorque here.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The system uses a Hirth joint.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo cranks differ from other manufacturers in that they are a two-piece system. The spindle uses a Hirth joint \u2013 this sees the spindle split in the middle with a series of interlocking teeth.<\/p>\n
Unlike other manufacturers, where the bottom bracket bearings are a separate unit, bearings on Campagnolo systems are pressed directly onto the spindle.<\/p>\n
Like a self-extracting design, a single crank bolt holds both arms together.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long-reach 10mm hex key is the only tool that may be unusual.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nNeedlenose pliers<\/li>\nLong-reach 10mm hex key<\/li>\nTorque wrench and 10mm socket<\/li>\nGrease<\/li>\nRag<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Remove the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll first need to remove the bearing clip retainer, which is located on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Use needlenose pliers to lift one side of the retainer, before removing the other.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The 10mm hex bolt hides inside the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Loosen the 10mm hex bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Take care when removing the bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The crank arm may need some wiggling to remove. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Make sure the wave washer comes off with the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
The 10mm crank bolt is located on the non-driveside on current 12-speed Campagnolo cranksets, as well as Ekar. However, it\u2019s located on the driveside for older generations.<\/p>\n
Loosen the bolt with a long-reach 10mm hex key.<\/p>\n
Note Super-Record cranks use a reverse-threaded titanium bolt.<\/p>\n
Once loosened, remove both crank arms.<\/p>\nHow to refit a Campagnolo crankset<\/h2>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Give everything a clean prior to refitting.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply a thin layer of grease to the spindle and the crank bolt \u2013 we recommend Campagnolo Professional Grease.<\/p>\n
Install the driveside crank arm and then the non-driveside. Push the two arms together so that the geared teeth of the Hirth joint engage together. This can be fiddly.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You should feel the geared teeth contact each other from inside the bottom bracket shell.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the 10mm hex bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo recommends a 42-60Nm torque \u2013 we\u2019d advise aiming towards the lower end of the scale, while making sure the crankset is free of play.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t forget the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the bearing clip on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Locate one hole, then use a needlenose plier to guide the clip into the second hole.<\/p>\nHow to replace a three-piece crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing this square-taper crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Three-piece cranksets comprise of two crank arms and a separate bottom bracket unit, which contains the crank spindle. There are two types of interface \u2013 square-taper or splined. A number of splined interfaces exist but Octalink and ISIS are the most common.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n Evenly loosen the two 5mm pinch bolts. Loosen these off a little at a time \u2013 don\u2019t undo one fully then the other. They don\u2019t need to be fully undone.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Loosen the cap.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Using a Hollowtech 2 installation tool, undo the Hollowtech cap (Shimano refers to this as the \u2018crank arm fixing screw\u2019 in its technical documentation).<\/p>\n
This screw is proprietary with an eight-point star shape. Lift up the small plastic catch (Shimano refers to this as a \u2018plate\u2019) that sits between between the two pinch bolts.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The crank will then come off.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
The non-driveside crank should now remove by hand, although you may need to give it a light tap with a rubber mallet from the inside of the crank arm. Should this be the case, we\u2019d recommend placing a rag over the inside of the crank arm for protection.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Watch out for any dust seals.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Take note of any dust seals that may come off with the arms.<\/p>\nHow to refit a Shimano crankset<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The various pieces that comprise a Shimano crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Refitting is the opposite of removal, but there are some important notes to be aware of.<\/p>\n
To start, it\u2019s worth giving the crankset a thorough clean before refitting.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019re using Muc-Off Bio Grease in this particular example.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Next, apply a thin layer of grease to the crank spindle, especially where it meets the bearings.<\/p>\n
We\u2019d recommend Shimano Premium Bearing green grease for best results, although you can use alternatives.<\/p>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you pass the chain over the spindle.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Feed the driveside crank arm through the bottom bracket shell, taking care to replace any relevant spacers or dust seals.<\/p>\n
You may need to use a rubber mallet to fully seat the arm. Again, consider covering the face of the crankset with a rag.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Look out for the cut-out.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Grease the splines of the spindle and install the non-driveside crank arm.<\/p>\n
There\u2019s a mark on the opposite side of the spindle with a hole to ensure the non-driveside crankarm is perfectly fitted 180 degrees apart from the driveside.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t over-tighten the cap.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Grease the threads of the Hollowtech cap and install it into the non-driveside crank arm. Shimano quotes a low 0.7-1.5Nm torque.<\/p>\n
If you over-tighten the cap, the crank arm will be pushed too far into the bearings, resulting in notchy operation. You can inspect your work by rotating the cranks to check if it\u2019s too tight or too loose.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure the plate is in the correct orientation.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Press down the plate and equally tighten the two pinch bolts to 12-15Nm.<\/p>\n
Before fitting the chain onto the chainrings, inspect for any play.<\/p>\nHow to replace a self-extracting crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing and refitting a SRAM Rival eTap AXS crankset in this example.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Many cranksets, such as those from SRAM and FSA, use a self-extracting design.<\/p>\n
This enables the crankset to be removed without a crank puller.<\/p>\n
The main crank bolt that secures the crankset to the spindle essentially functions as a crank puller when the bolt is loosened, in combination with a retaining ring. Therefore, only one tool is required to remove the crankset.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You\u2019ll want a good-quality 8mm hex key with lots of leverage.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nHex keys<\/li>\nTorque wrench and appropriate socket<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Loosen the main crank bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
There can be variations in which crank arm the main crank bolt is located. On SRAM DUB cranksets, it is on the driveside.<\/p>\n
Regardless of which side it is on, begin by loosening the crank bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long ratchet or breaker bar could be the friend you need.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
The crank bolt can take quite some force to undo (especially on SRAM DUB cranksets), so we\u2019d recommend keeping the chain on the big chainring to avoid skinning your knuckles. We\u2019d also advise performing this step with the bike on the ground so gravity helps you.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> 101 uses of a toe strap\u2026<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If you\u2019re finding it difficult to loosen, consider using a long ratchet handle or breaker bar for additional purchase.<\/p>\n
You could consider using a toe strap to secure the non-driveside crank arm to the non-driveside chainstay.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Heave ho!<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Once the bolt breaks free, loosen until the arm slides off and away from the spindle. There will be a period when there is more resistance in turning the bolt.\u00a0 This is typical \u2013 keep going until the crank arm is free.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you don\u2019t lose any spacers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Take note of any spacers, wavey washers or dust seals that come off with the crank arm.<\/p>\n
Remove the opposing crank arm \u2013 it may require some persuasion with a rubber mallet.<\/p>\nHow to refit a self-extracting crankset<\/h3>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Grease the spindle.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply grease to the spindle, the splines of the crank arm and on the inside of the threads.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> In goes the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the crank arm that doesn\u2019t contain the main crank bolt \u2013 on this SRAM Rival crank, this is the non-driveside.<\/p>\n
You may need to use a rubber mallet to tap it into place. Make sure you refit any washers or seals.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you fit the driveside 180 degrees from the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the opposing crank arm. It can be a little fiddly making sure it is correctly positioned 180 degrees from the non-driveside. We\u2019d recommend holding onto the arm as you initially tighten the main crank bolt.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Tighten the crank bolt to the manufacturer\u2019s recommended spec \u2013 a high 48-54Nm for this SRAM DUB crankset.<\/p>\n
Inspect for play.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Be careful to avoid rounding the small 2mm bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll need to adjust the preload if there is any play. Loosen the preload adjuster bolt and turn in the direction of the + arrow. Tighten until the edges of the preload collar touch.<\/p>\n
Do not over-tighten the preload adjuster, because you risk damaging the bottom bracket bearing. Inspect for play.<\/p>\nHow to remove a Campagnolo UltraTorque crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Campagnolo cranksets differ from other manufacturers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
There are two types of Campagnolo cranks \u2013 UltraTorque and PowerTorque.<\/p>\n
The PowerTorque standard is now largely defunct, so we\u2019ll be concentrating on UltraTorque here.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The system uses a Hirth joint.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo cranks differ from other manufacturers in that they are a two-piece system. The spindle uses a Hirth joint \u2013 this sees the spindle split in the middle with a series of interlocking teeth.<\/p>\n
Unlike other manufacturers, where the bottom bracket bearings are a separate unit, bearings on Campagnolo systems are pressed directly onto the spindle.<\/p>\n
Like a self-extracting design, a single crank bolt holds both arms together.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long-reach 10mm hex key is the only tool that may be unusual.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nNeedlenose pliers<\/li>\nLong-reach 10mm hex key<\/li>\nTorque wrench and 10mm socket<\/li>\nGrease<\/li>\nRag<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Remove the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll first need to remove the bearing clip retainer, which is located on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Use needlenose pliers to lift one side of the retainer, before removing the other.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The 10mm hex bolt hides inside the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Loosen the 10mm hex bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Take care when removing the bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The crank arm may need some wiggling to remove. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Make sure the wave washer comes off with the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
The 10mm crank bolt is located on the non-driveside on current 12-speed Campagnolo cranksets, as well as Ekar. However, it\u2019s located on the driveside for older generations.<\/p>\n
Loosen the bolt with a long-reach 10mm hex key.<\/p>\n
Note Super-Record cranks use a reverse-threaded titanium bolt.<\/p>\n
Once loosened, remove both crank arms.<\/p>\nHow to refit a Campagnolo crankset<\/h2>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Give everything a clean prior to refitting.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply a thin layer of grease to the spindle and the crank bolt \u2013 we recommend Campagnolo Professional Grease.<\/p>\n
Install the driveside crank arm and then the non-driveside. Push the two arms together so that the geared teeth of the Hirth joint engage together. This can be fiddly.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You should feel the geared teeth contact each other from inside the bottom bracket shell.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the 10mm hex bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo recommends a 42-60Nm torque \u2013 we\u2019d advise aiming towards the lower end of the scale, while making sure the crankset is free of play.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t forget the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the bearing clip on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Locate one hole, then use a needlenose plier to guide the clip into the second hole.<\/p>\nHow to replace a three-piece crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing this square-taper crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Three-piece cranksets comprise of two crank arms and a separate bottom bracket unit, which contains the crank spindle. There are two types of interface \u2013 square-taper or splined. A number of splined interfaces exist but Octalink and ISIS are the most common.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n Using a Hollowtech 2 installation tool, undo the Hollowtech cap (Shimano refers to this as the \u2018crank arm fixing screw\u2019 in its technical documentation).<\/p>\n This screw is proprietary with an eight-point star shape. Lift up the small plastic catch (Shimano refers to this as a \u2018plate\u2019) that sits between between the two pinch bolts.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The crank will then come off.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
The non-driveside crank should now remove by hand, although you may need to give it a light tap with a rubber mallet from the inside of the crank arm. Should this be the case, we\u2019d recommend placing a rag over the inside of the crank arm for protection.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Watch out for any dust seals.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Take note of any dust seals that may come off with the arms.<\/p>\nHow to refit a Shimano crankset<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The various pieces that comprise a Shimano crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Refitting is the opposite of removal, but there are some important notes to be aware of.<\/p>\n
To start, it\u2019s worth giving the crankset a thorough clean before refitting.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019re using Muc-Off Bio Grease in this particular example.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Next, apply a thin layer of grease to the crank spindle, especially where it meets the bearings.<\/p>\n
We\u2019d recommend Shimano Premium Bearing green grease for best results, although you can use alternatives.<\/p>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you pass the chain over the spindle.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Feed the driveside crank arm through the bottom bracket shell, taking care to replace any relevant spacers or dust seals.<\/p>\n
You may need to use a rubber mallet to fully seat the arm. Again, consider covering the face of the crankset with a rag.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Look out for the cut-out.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Grease the splines of the spindle and install the non-driveside crank arm.<\/p>\n
There\u2019s a mark on the opposite side of the spindle with a hole to ensure the non-driveside crankarm is perfectly fitted 180 degrees apart from the driveside.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t over-tighten the cap.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Grease the threads of the Hollowtech cap and install it into the non-driveside crank arm. Shimano quotes a low 0.7-1.5Nm torque.<\/p>\n
If you over-tighten the cap, the crank arm will be pushed too far into the bearings, resulting in notchy operation. You can inspect your work by rotating the cranks to check if it\u2019s too tight or too loose.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure the plate is in the correct orientation.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Press down the plate and equally tighten the two pinch bolts to 12-15Nm.<\/p>\n
Before fitting the chain onto the chainrings, inspect for any play.<\/p>\nHow to replace a self-extracting crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing and refitting a SRAM Rival eTap AXS crankset in this example.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Many cranksets, such as those from SRAM and FSA, use a self-extracting design.<\/p>\n
This enables the crankset to be removed without a crank puller.<\/p>\n
The main crank bolt that secures the crankset to the spindle essentially functions as a crank puller when the bolt is loosened, in combination with a retaining ring. Therefore, only one tool is required to remove the crankset.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You\u2019ll want a good-quality 8mm hex key with lots of leverage.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nHex keys<\/li>\nTorque wrench and appropriate socket<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Loosen the main crank bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
There can be variations in which crank arm the main crank bolt is located. On SRAM DUB cranksets, it is on the driveside.<\/p>\n
Regardless of which side it is on, begin by loosening the crank bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long ratchet or breaker bar could be the friend you need.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
The crank bolt can take quite some force to undo (especially on SRAM DUB cranksets), so we\u2019d recommend keeping the chain on the big chainring to avoid skinning your knuckles. We\u2019d also advise performing this step with the bike on the ground so gravity helps you.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> 101 uses of a toe strap\u2026<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If you\u2019re finding it difficult to loosen, consider using a long ratchet handle or breaker bar for additional purchase.<\/p>\n
You could consider using a toe strap to secure the non-driveside crank arm to the non-driveside chainstay.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Heave ho!<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Once the bolt breaks free, loosen until the arm slides off and away from the spindle. There will be a period when there is more resistance in turning the bolt.\u00a0 This is typical \u2013 keep going until the crank arm is free.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you don\u2019t lose any spacers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Take note of any spacers, wavey washers or dust seals that come off with the crank arm.<\/p>\n
Remove the opposing crank arm \u2013 it may require some persuasion with a rubber mallet.<\/p>\nHow to refit a self-extracting crankset<\/h3>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Grease the spindle.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply grease to the spindle, the splines of the crank arm and on the inside of the threads.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> In goes the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the crank arm that doesn\u2019t contain the main crank bolt \u2013 on this SRAM Rival crank, this is the non-driveside.<\/p>\n
You may need to use a rubber mallet to tap it into place. Make sure you refit any washers or seals.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you fit the driveside 180 degrees from the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the opposing crank arm. It can be a little fiddly making sure it is correctly positioned 180 degrees from the non-driveside. We\u2019d recommend holding onto the arm as you initially tighten the main crank bolt.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Tighten the crank bolt to the manufacturer\u2019s recommended spec \u2013 a high 48-54Nm for this SRAM DUB crankset.<\/p>\n
Inspect for play.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Be careful to avoid rounding the small 2mm bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll need to adjust the preload if there is any play. Loosen the preload adjuster bolt and turn in the direction of the + arrow. Tighten until the edges of the preload collar touch.<\/p>\n
Do not over-tighten the preload adjuster, because you risk damaging the bottom bracket bearing. Inspect for play.<\/p>\nHow to remove a Campagnolo UltraTorque crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Campagnolo cranksets differ from other manufacturers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
There are two types of Campagnolo cranks \u2013 UltraTorque and PowerTorque.<\/p>\n
The PowerTorque standard is now largely defunct, so we\u2019ll be concentrating on UltraTorque here.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The system uses a Hirth joint.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo cranks differ from other manufacturers in that they are a two-piece system. The spindle uses a Hirth joint \u2013 this sees the spindle split in the middle with a series of interlocking teeth.<\/p>\n
Unlike other manufacturers, where the bottom bracket bearings are a separate unit, bearings on Campagnolo systems are pressed directly onto the spindle.<\/p>\n
Like a self-extracting design, a single crank bolt holds both arms together.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long-reach 10mm hex key is the only tool that may be unusual.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nNeedlenose pliers<\/li>\nLong-reach 10mm hex key<\/li>\nTorque wrench and 10mm socket<\/li>\nGrease<\/li>\nRag<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Remove the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll first need to remove the bearing clip retainer, which is located on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Use needlenose pliers to lift one side of the retainer, before removing the other.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The 10mm hex bolt hides inside the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Loosen the 10mm hex bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Take care when removing the bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The crank arm may need some wiggling to remove. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Make sure the wave washer comes off with the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
The 10mm crank bolt is located on the non-driveside on current 12-speed Campagnolo cranksets, as well as Ekar. However, it\u2019s located on the driveside for older generations.<\/p>\n
Loosen the bolt with a long-reach 10mm hex key.<\/p>\n
Note Super-Record cranks use a reverse-threaded titanium bolt.<\/p>\n
Once loosened, remove both crank arms.<\/p>\nHow to refit a Campagnolo crankset<\/h2>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Give everything a clean prior to refitting.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply a thin layer of grease to the spindle and the crank bolt \u2013 we recommend Campagnolo Professional Grease.<\/p>\n
Install the driveside crank arm and then the non-driveside. Push the two arms together so that the geared teeth of the Hirth joint engage together. This can be fiddly.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You should feel the geared teeth contact each other from inside the bottom bracket shell.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the 10mm hex bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo recommends a 42-60Nm torque \u2013 we\u2019d advise aiming towards the lower end of the scale, while making sure the crankset is free of play.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t forget the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the bearing clip on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Locate one hole, then use a needlenose plier to guide the clip into the second hole.<\/p>\nHow to replace a three-piece crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing this square-taper crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Three-piece cranksets comprise of two crank arms and a separate bottom bracket unit, which contains the crank spindle. There are two types of interface \u2013 square-taper or splined. A number of splined interfaces exist but Octalink and ISIS are the most common.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n The non-driveside crank should now remove by hand, although you may need to give it a light tap with a rubber mallet from the inside of the crank arm. Should this be the case, we\u2019d recommend placing a rag over the inside of the crank arm for protection.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Watch out for any dust seals.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Take note of any dust seals that may come off with the arms.<\/p>\nHow to refit a Shimano crankset<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The various pieces that comprise a Shimano crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Refitting is the opposite of removal, but there are some important notes to be aware of.<\/p>\n
To start, it\u2019s worth giving the crankset a thorough clean before refitting.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019re using Muc-Off Bio Grease in this particular example.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Next, apply a thin layer of grease to the crank spindle, especially where it meets the bearings.<\/p>\n
We\u2019d recommend Shimano Premium Bearing green grease for best results, although you can use alternatives.<\/p>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you pass the chain over the spindle.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Feed the driveside crank arm through the bottom bracket shell, taking care to replace any relevant spacers or dust seals.<\/p>\n
You may need to use a rubber mallet to fully seat the arm. Again, consider covering the face of the crankset with a rag.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Look out for the cut-out.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Grease the splines of the spindle and install the non-driveside crank arm.<\/p>\n
There\u2019s a mark on the opposite side of the spindle with a hole to ensure the non-driveside crankarm is perfectly fitted 180 degrees apart from the driveside.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t over-tighten the cap.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Grease the threads of the Hollowtech cap and install it into the non-driveside crank arm. Shimano quotes a low 0.7-1.5Nm torque.<\/p>\n
If you over-tighten the cap, the crank arm will be pushed too far into the bearings, resulting in notchy operation. You can inspect your work by rotating the cranks to check if it\u2019s too tight or too loose.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure the plate is in the correct orientation.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Press down the plate and equally tighten the two pinch bolts to 12-15Nm.<\/p>\n
Before fitting the chain onto the chainrings, inspect for any play.<\/p>\nHow to replace a self-extracting crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing and refitting a SRAM Rival eTap AXS crankset in this example.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Many cranksets, such as those from SRAM and FSA, use a self-extracting design.<\/p>\n
This enables the crankset to be removed without a crank puller.<\/p>\n
The main crank bolt that secures the crankset to the spindle essentially functions as a crank puller when the bolt is loosened, in combination with a retaining ring. Therefore, only one tool is required to remove the crankset.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You\u2019ll want a good-quality 8mm hex key with lots of leverage.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nHex keys<\/li>\nTorque wrench and appropriate socket<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Loosen the main crank bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
There can be variations in which crank arm the main crank bolt is located. On SRAM DUB cranksets, it is on the driveside.<\/p>\n
Regardless of which side it is on, begin by loosening the crank bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long ratchet or breaker bar could be the friend you need.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
The crank bolt can take quite some force to undo (especially on SRAM DUB cranksets), so we\u2019d recommend keeping the chain on the big chainring to avoid skinning your knuckles. We\u2019d also advise performing this step with the bike on the ground so gravity helps you.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> 101 uses of a toe strap\u2026<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If you\u2019re finding it difficult to loosen, consider using a long ratchet handle or breaker bar for additional purchase.<\/p>\n
You could consider using a toe strap to secure the non-driveside crank arm to the non-driveside chainstay.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Heave ho!<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Once the bolt breaks free, loosen until the arm slides off and away from the spindle. There will be a period when there is more resistance in turning the bolt.\u00a0 This is typical \u2013 keep going until the crank arm is free.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you don\u2019t lose any spacers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Take note of any spacers, wavey washers or dust seals that come off with the crank arm.<\/p>\n
Remove the opposing crank arm \u2013 it may require some persuasion with a rubber mallet.<\/p>\nHow to refit a self-extracting crankset<\/h3>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Grease the spindle.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply grease to the spindle, the splines of the crank arm and on the inside of the threads.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> In goes the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the crank arm that doesn\u2019t contain the main crank bolt \u2013 on this SRAM Rival crank, this is the non-driveside.<\/p>\n
You may need to use a rubber mallet to tap it into place. Make sure you refit any washers or seals.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you fit the driveside 180 degrees from the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the opposing crank arm. It can be a little fiddly making sure it is correctly positioned 180 degrees from the non-driveside. We\u2019d recommend holding onto the arm as you initially tighten the main crank bolt.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Tighten the crank bolt to the manufacturer\u2019s recommended spec \u2013 a high 48-54Nm for this SRAM DUB crankset.<\/p>\n
Inspect for play.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Be careful to avoid rounding the small 2mm bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll need to adjust the preload if there is any play. Loosen the preload adjuster bolt and turn in the direction of the + arrow. Tighten until the edges of the preload collar touch.<\/p>\n
Do not over-tighten the preload adjuster, because you risk damaging the bottom bracket bearing. Inspect for play.<\/p>\nHow to remove a Campagnolo UltraTorque crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Campagnolo cranksets differ from other manufacturers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
There are two types of Campagnolo cranks \u2013 UltraTorque and PowerTorque.<\/p>\n
The PowerTorque standard is now largely defunct, so we\u2019ll be concentrating on UltraTorque here.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The system uses a Hirth joint.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo cranks differ from other manufacturers in that they are a two-piece system. The spindle uses a Hirth joint \u2013 this sees the spindle split in the middle with a series of interlocking teeth.<\/p>\n
Unlike other manufacturers, where the bottom bracket bearings are a separate unit, bearings on Campagnolo systems are pressed directly onto the spindle.<\/p>\n
Like a self-extracting design, a single crank bolt holds both arms together.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long-reach 10mm hex key is the only tool that may be unusual.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nNeedlenose pliers<\/li>\nLong-reach 10mm hex key<\/li>\nTorque wrench and 10mm socket<\/li>\nGrease<\/li>\nRag<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Remove the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll first need to remove the bearing clip retainer, which is located on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Use needlenose pliers to lift one side of the retainer, before removing the other.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The 10mm hex bolt hides inside the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Loosen the 10mm hex bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Take care when removing the bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The crank arm may need some wiggling to remove. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Make sure the wave washer comes off with the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
The 10mm crank bolt is located on the non-driveside on current 12-speed Campagnolo cranksets, as well as Ekar. However, it\u2019s located on the driveside for older generations.<\/p>\n
Loosen the bolt with a long-reach 10mm hex key.<\/p>\n
Note Super-Record cranks use a reverse-threaded titanium bolt.<\/p>\n
Once loosened, remove both crank arms.<\/p>\nHow to refit a Campagnolo crankset<\/h2>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Give everything a clean prior to refitting.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply a thin layer of grease to the spindle and the crank bolt \u2013 we recommend Campagnolo Professional Grease.<\/p>\n
Install the driveside crank arm and then the non-driveside. Push the two arms together so that the geared teeth of the Hirth joint engage together. This can be fiddly.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You should feel the geared teeth contact each other from inside the bottom bracket shell.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the 10mm hex bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo recommends a 42-60Nm torque \u2013 we\u2019d advise aiming towards the lower end of the scale, while making sure the crankset is free of play.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t forget the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the bearing clip on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Locate one hole, then use a needlenose plier to guide the clip into the second hole.<\/p>\nHow to replace a three-piece crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing this square-taper crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Three-piece cranksets comprise of two crank arms and a separate bottom bracket unit, which contains the crank spindle. There are two types of interface \u2013 square-taper or splined. A number of splined interfaces exist but Octalink and ISIS are the most common.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n Take note of any dust seals that may come off with the arms.<\/p>\nHow to refit a Shimano crankset<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The various pieces that comprise a Shimano crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Refitting is the opposite of removal, but there are some important notes to be aware of.<\/p>\n
To start, it\u2019s worth giving the crankset a thorough clean before refitting.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019re using Muc-Off Bio Grease in this particular example.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Next, apply a thin layer of grease to the crank spindle, especially where it meets the bearings.<\/p>\n
We\u2019d recommend Shimano Premium Bearing green grease for best results, although you can use alternatives.<\/p>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you pass the chain over the spindle.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Feed the driveside crank arm through the bottom bracket shell, taking care to replace any relevant spacers or dust seals.<\/p>\n
You may need to use a rubber mallet to fully seat the arm. Again, consider covering the face of the crankset with a rag.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Look out for the cut-out.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Grease the splines of the spindle and install the non-driveside crank arm.<\/p>\n
There\u2019s a mark on the opposite side of the spindle with a hole to ensure the non-driveside crankarm is perfectly fitted 180 degrees apart from the driveside.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t over-tighten the cap.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Grease the threads of the Hollowtech cap and install it into the non-driveside crank arm. Shimano quotes a low 0.7-1.5Nm torque.<\/p>\n
If you over-tighten the cap, the crank arm will be pushed too far into the bearings, resulting in notchy operation. You can inspect your work by rotating the cranks to check if it\u2019s too tight or too loose.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure the plate is in the correct orientation.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Press down the plate and equally tighten the two pinch bolts to 12-15Nm.<\/p>\n
Before fitting the chain onto the chainrings, inspect for any play.<\/p>\nHow to replace a self-extracting crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing and refitting a SRAM Rival eTap AXS crankset in this example.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Many cranksets, such as those from SRAM and FSA, use a self-extracting design.<\/p>\n
This enables the crankset to be removed without a crank puller.<\/p>\n
The main crank bolt that secures the crankset to the spindle essentially functions as a crank puller when the bolt is loosened, in combination with a retaining ring. Therefore, only one tool is required to remove the crankset.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You\u2019ll want a good-quality 8mm hex key with lots of leverage.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nHex keys<\/li>\nTorque wrench and appropriate socket<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Loosen the main crank bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
There can be variations in which crank arm the main crank bolt is located. On SRAM DUB cranksets, it is on the driveside.<\/p>\n
Regardless of which side it is on, begin by loosening the crank bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long ratchet or breaker bar could be the friend you need.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
The crank bolt can take quite some force to undo (especially on SRAM DUB cranksets), so we\u2019d recommend keeping the chain on the big chainring to avoid skinning your knuckles. We\u2019d also advise performing this step with the bike on the ground so gravity helps you.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> 101 uses of a toe strap\u2026<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If you\u2019re finding it difficult to loosen, consider using a long ratchet handle or breaker bar for additional purchase.<\/p>\n
You could consider using a toe strap to secure the non-driveside crank arm to the non-driveside chainstay.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Heave ho!<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Once the bolt breaks free, loosen until the arm slides off and away from the spindle. There will be a period when there is more resistance in turning the bolt.\u00a0 This is typical \u2013 keep going until the crank arm is free.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you don\u2019t lose any spacers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Take note of any spacers, wavey washers or dust seals that come off with the crank arm.<\/p>\n
Remove the opposing crank arm \u2013 it may require some persuasion with a rubber mallet.<\/p>\nHow to refit a self-extracting crankset<\/h3>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Grease the spindle.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply grease to the spindle, the splines of the crank arm and on the inside of the threads.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> In goes the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the crank arm that doesn\u2019t contain the main crank bolt \u2013 on this SRAM Rival crank, this is the non-driveside.<\/p>\n
You may need to use a rubber mallet to tap it into place. Make sure you refit any washers or seals.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you fit the driveside 180 degrees from the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the opposing crank arm. It can be a little fiddly making sure it is correctly positioned 180 degrees from the non-driveside. We\u2019d recommend holding onto the arm as you initially tighten the main crank bolt.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Tighten the crank bolt to the manufacturer\u2019s recommended spec \u2013 a high 48-54Nm for this SRAM DUB crankset.<\/p>\n
Inspect for play.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Be careful to avoid rounding the small 2mm bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll need to adjust the preload if there is any play. Loosen the preload adjuster bolt and turn in the direction of the + arrow. Tighten until the edges of the preload collar touch.<\/p>\n
Do not over-tighten the preload adjuster, because you risk damaging the bottom bracket bearing. Inspect for play.<\/p>\nHow to remove a Campagnolo UltraTorque crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Campagnolo cranksets differ from other manufacturers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
There are two types of Campagnolo cranks \u2013 UltraTorque and PowerTorque.<\/p>\n
The PowerTorque standard is now largely defunct, so we\u2019ll be concentrating on UltraTorque here.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The system uses a Hirth joint.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo cranks differ from other manufacturers in that they are a two-piece system. The spindle uses a Hirth joint \u2013 this sees the spindle split in the middle with a series of interlocking teeth.<\/p>\n
Unlike other manufacturers, where the bottom bracket bearings are a separate unit, bearings on Campagnolo systems are pressed directly onto the spindle.<\/p>\n
Like a self-extracting design, a single crank bolt holds both arms together.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long-reach 10mm hex key is the only tool that may be unusual.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nNeedlenose pliers<\/li>\nLong-reach 10mm hex key<\/li>\nTorque wrench and 10mm socket<\/li>\nGrease<\/li>\nRag<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Remove the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll first need to remove the bearing clip retainer, which is located on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Use needlenose pliers to lift one side of the retainer, before removing the other.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The 10mm hex bolt hides inside the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Loosen the 10mm hex bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Take care when removing the bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The crank arm may need some wiggling to remove. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Make sure the wave washer comes off with the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
The 10mm crank bolt is located on the non-driveside on current 12-speed Campagnolo cranksets, as well as Ekar. However, it\u2019s located on the driveside for older generations.<\/p>\n
Loosen the bolt with a long-reach 10mm hex key.<\/p>\n
Note Super-Record cranks use a reverse-threaded titanium bolt.<\/p>\n
Once loosened, remove both crank arms.<\/p>\nHow to refit a Campagnolo crankset<\/h2>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Give everything a clean prior to refitting.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply a thin layer of grease to the spindle and the crank bolt \u2013 we recommend Campagnolo Professional Grease.<\/p>\n
Install the driveside crank arm and then the non-driveside. Push the two arms together so that the geared teeth of the Hirth joint engage together. This can be fiddly.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You should feel the geared teeth contact each other from inside the bottom bracket shell.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the 10mm hex bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo recommends a 42-60Nm torque \u2013 we\u2019d advise aiming towards the lower end of the scale, while making sure the crankset is free of play.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t forget the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the bearing clip on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Locate one hole, then use a needlenose plier to guide the clip into the second hole.<\/p>\nHow to replace a three-piece crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing this square-taper crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Three-piece cranksets comprise of two crank arms and a separate bottom bracket unit, which contains the crank spindle. There are two types of interface \u2013 square-taper or splined. A number of splined interfaces exist but Octalink and ISIS are the most common.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n Refitting is the opposite of removal, but there are some important notes to be aware of.<\/p>\n To start, it\u2019s worth giving the crankset a thorough clean before refitting.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019re using Muc-Off Bio Grease in this particular example.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Next, apply a thin layer of grease to the crank spindle, especially where it meets the bearings.<\/p>\n
We\u2019d recommend Shimano Premium Bearing green grease for best results, although you can use alternatives.<\/p>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you pass the chain over the spindle.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Feed the driveside crank arm through the bottom bracket shell, taking care to replace any relevant spacers or dust seals.<\/p>\n
You may need to use a rubber mallet to fully seat the arm. Again, consider covering the face of the crankset with a rag.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Look out for the cut-out.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Grease the splines of the spindle and install the non-driveside crank arm.<\/p>\n
There\u2019s a mark on the opposite side of the spindle with a hole to ensure the non-driveside crankarm is perfectly fitted 180 degrees apart from the driveside.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t over-tighten the cap.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Grease the threads of the Hollowtech cap and install it into the non-driveside crank arm. Shimano quotes a low 0.7-1.5Nm torque.<\/p>\n
If you over-tighten the cap, the crank arm will be pushed too far into the bearings, resulting in notchy operation. You can inspect your work by rotating the cranks to check if it\u2019s too tight or too loose.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure the plate is in the correct orientation.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Press down the plate and equally tighten the two pinch bolts to 12-15Nm.<\/p>\n
Before fitting the chain onto the chainrings, inspect for any play.<\/p>\nHow to replace a self-extracting crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing and refitting a SRAM Rival eTap AXS crankset in this example.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Many cranksets, such as those from SRAM and FSA, use a self-extracting design.<\/p>\n
This enables the crankset to be removed without a crank puller.<\/p>\n
The main crank bolt that secures the crankset to the spindle essentially functions as a crank puller when the bolt is loosened, in combination with a retaining ring. Therefore, only one tool is required to remove the crankset.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You\u2019ll want a good-quality 8mm hex key with lots of leverage.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nHex keys<\/li>\nTorque wrench and appropriate socket<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Loosen the main crank bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
There can be variations in which crank arm the main crank bolt is located. On SRAM DUB cranksets, it is on the driveside.<\/p>\n
Regardless of which side it is on, begin by loosening the crank bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long ratchet or breaker bar could be the friend you need.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
The crank bolt can take quite some force to undo (especially on SRAM DUB cranksets), so we\u2019d recommend keeping the chain on the big chainring to avoid skinning your knuckles. We\u2019d also advise performing this step with the bike on the ground so gravity helps you.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> 101 uses of a toe strap\u2026<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If you\u2019re finding it difficult to loosen, consider using a long ratchet handle or breaker bar for additional purchase.<\/p>\n
You could consider using a toe strap to secure the non-driveside crank arm to the non-driveside chainstay.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Heave ho!<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Once the bolt breaks free, loosen until the arm slides off and away from the spindle. There will be a period when there is more resistance in turning the bolt.\u00a0 This is typical \u2013 keep going until the crank arm is free.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you don\u2019t lose any spacers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Take note of any spacers, wavey washers or dust seals that come off with the crank arm.<\/p>\n
Remove the opposing crank arm \u2013 it may require some persuasion with a rubber mallet.<\/p>\nHow to refit a self-extracting crankset<\/h3>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Grease the spindle.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply grease to the spindle, the splines of the crank arm and on the inside of the threads.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> In goes the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the crank arm that doesn\u2019t contain the main crank bolt \u2013 on this SRAM Rival crank, this is the non-driveside.<\/p>\n
You may need to use a rubber mallet to tap it into place. Make sure you refit any washers or seals.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you fit the driveside 180 degrees from the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the opposing crank arm. It can be a little fiddly making sure it is correctly positioned 180 degrees from the non-driveside. We\u2019d recommend holding onto the arm as you initially tighten the main crank bolt.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Tighten the crank bolt to the manufacturer\u2019s recommended spec \u2013 a high 48-54Nm for this SRAM DUB crankset.<\/p>\n
Inspect for play.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Be careful to avoid rounding the small 2mm bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll need to adjust the preload if there is any play. Loosen the preload adjuster bolt and turn in the direction of the + arrow. Tighten until the edges of the preload collar touch.<\/p>\n
Do not over-tighten the preload adjuster, because you risk damaging the bottom bracket bearing. Inspect for play.<\/p>\nHow to remove a Campagnolo UltraTorque crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Campagnolo cranksets differ from other manufacturers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
There are two types of Campagnolo cranks \u2013 UltraTorque and PowerTorque.<\/p>\n
The PowerTorque standard is now largely defunct, so we\u2019ll be concentrating on UltraTorque here.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The system uses a Hirth joint.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo cranks differ from other manufacturers in that they are a two-piece system. The spindle uses a Hirth joint \u2013 this sees the spindle split in the middle with a series of interlocking teeth.<\/p>\n
Unlike other manufacturers, where the bottom bracket bearings are a separate unit, bearings on Campagnolo systems are pressed directly onto the spindle.<\/p>\n
Like a self-extracting design, a single crank bolt holds both arms together.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long-reach 10mm hex key is the only tool that may be unusual.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nNeedlenose pliers<\/li>\nLong-reach 10mm hex key<\/li>\nTorque wrench and 10mm socket<\/li>\nGrease<\/li>\nRag<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Remove the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll first need to remove the bearing clip retainer, which is located on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Use needlenose pliers to lift one side of the retainer, before removing the other.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The 10mm hex bolt hides inside the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Loosen the 10mm hex bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Take care when removing the bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The crank arm may need some wiggling to remove. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Make sure the wave washer comes off with the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
The 10mm crank bolt is located on the non-driveside on current 12-speed Campagnolo cranksets, as well as Ekar. However, it\u2019s located on the driveside for older generations.<\/p>\n
Loosen the bolt with a long-reach 10mm hex key.<\/p>\n
Note Super-Record cranks use a reverse-threaded titanium bolt.<\/p>\n
Once loosened, remove both crank arms.<\/p>\nHow to refit a Campagnolo crankset<\/h2>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Give everything a clean prior to refitting.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply a thin layer of grease to the spindle and the crank bolt \u2013 we recommend Campagnolo Professional Grease.<\/p>\n
Install the driveside crank arm and then the non-driveside. Push the two arms together so that the geared teeth of the Hirth joint engage together. This can be fiddly.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You should feel the geared teeth contact each other from inside the bottom bracket shell.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the 10mm hex bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo recommends a 42-60Nm torque \u2013 we\u2019d advise aiming towards the lower end of the scale, while making sure the crankset is free of play.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t forget the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the bearing clip on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Locate one hole, then use a needlenose plier to guide the clip into the second hole.<\/p>\nHow to replace a three-piece crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing this square-taper crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Three-piece cranksets comprise of two crank arms and a separate bottom bracket unit, which contains the crank spindle. There are two types of interface \u2013 square-taper or splined. A number of splined interfaces exist but Octalink and ISIS are the most common.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n Next, apply a thin layer of grease to the crank spindle, especially where it meets the bearings.<\/p>\n We\u2019d recommend Shimano Premium Bearing green grease for best results, although you can use alternatives.<\/p>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you pass the chain over the spindle.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Feed the driveside crank arm through the bottom bracket shell, taking care to replace any relevant spacers or dust seals.<\/p>\n
You may need to use a rubber mallet to fully seat the arm. Again, consider covering the face of the crankset with a rag.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Look out for the cut-out.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Grease the splines of the spindle and install the non-driveside crank arm.<\/p>\n
There\u2019s a mark on the opposite side of the spindle with a hole to ensure the non-driveside crankarm is perfectly fitted 180 degrees apart from the driveside.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t over-tighten the cap.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Grease the threads of the Hollowtech cap and install it into the non-driveside crank arm. Shimano quotes a low 0.7-1.5Nm torque.<\/p>\n
If you over-tighten the cap, the crank arm will be pushed too far into the bearings, resulting in notchy operation. You can inspect your work by rotating the cranks to check if it\u2019s too tight or too loose.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure the plate is in the correct orientation.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Press down the plate and equally tighten the two pinch bolts to 12-15Nm.<\/p>\n
Before fitting the chain onto the chainrings, inspect for any play.<\/p>\nHow to replace a self-extracting crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing and refitting a SRAM Rival eTap AXS crankset in this example.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Many cranksets, such as those from SRAM and FSA, use a self-extracting design.<\/p>\n
This enables the crankset to be removed without a crank puller.<\/p>\n
The main crank bolt that secures the crankset to the spindle essentially functions as a crank puller when the bolt is loosened, in combination with a retaining ring. Therefore, only one tool is required to remove the crankset.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You\u2019ll want a good-quality 8mm hex key with lots of leverage.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nHex keys<\/li>\nTorque wrench and appropriate socket<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Loosen the main crank bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
There can be variations in which crank arm the main crank bolt is located. On SRAM DUB cranksets, it is on the driveside.<\/p>\n
Regardless of which side it is on, begin by loosening the crank bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long ratchet or breaker bar could be the friend you need.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
The crank bolt can take quite some force to undo (especially on SRAM DUB cranksets), so we\u2019d recommend keeping the chain on the big chainring to avoid skinning your knuckles. We\u2019d also advise performing this step with the bike on the ground so gravity helps you.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> 101 uses of a toe strap\u2026<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If you\u2019re finding it difficult to loosen, consider using a long ratchet handle or breaker bar for additional purchase.<\/p>\n
You could consider using a toe strap to secure the non-driveside crank arm to the non-driveside chainstay.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Heave ho!<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Once the bolt breaks free, loosen until the arm slides off and away from the spindle. There will be a period when there is more resistance in turning the bolt.\u00a0 This is typical \u2013 keep going until the crank arm is free.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you don\u2019t lose any spacers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Take note of any spacers, wavey washers or dust seals that come off with the crank arm.<\/p>\n
Remove the opposing crank arm \u2013 it may require some persuasion with a rubber mallet.<\/p>\nHow to refit a self-extracting crankset<\/h3>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Grease the spindle.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply grease to the spindle, the splines of the crank arm and on the inside of the threads.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> In goes the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the crank arm that doesn\u2019t contain the main crank bolt \u2013 on this SRAM Rival crank, this is the non-driveside.<\/p>\n
You may need to use a rubber mallet to tap it into place. Make sure you refit any washers or seals.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you fit the driveside 180 degrees from the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the opposing crank arm. It can be a little fiddly making sure it is correctly positioned 180 degrees from the non-driveside. We\u2019d recommend holding onto the arm as you initially tighten the main crank bolt.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Tighten the crank bolt to the manufacturer\u2019s recommended spec \u2013 a high 48-54Nm for this SRAM DUB crankset.<\/p>\n
Inspect for play.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Be careful to avoid rounding the small 2mm bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll need to adjust the preload if there is any play. Loosen the preload adjuster bolt and turn in the direction of the + arrow. Tighten until the edges of the preload collar touch.<\/p>\n
Do not over-tighten the preload adjuster, because you risk damaging the bottom bracket bearing. Inspect for play.<\/p>\nHow to remove a Campagnolo UltraTorque crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Campagnolo cranksets differ from other manufacturers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
There are two types of Campagnolo cranks \u2013 UltraTorque and PowerTorque.<\/p>\n
The PowerTorque standard is now largely defunct, so we\u2019ll be concentrating on UltraTorque here.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The system uses a Hirth joint.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo cranks differ from other manufacturers in that they are a two-piece system. The spindle uses a Hirth joint \u2013 this sees the spindle split in the middle with a series of interlocking teeth.<\/p>\n
Unlike other manufacturers, where the bottom bracket bearings are a separate unit, bearings on Campagnolo systems are pressed directly onto the spindle.<\/p>\n
Like a self-extracting design, a single crank bolt holds both arms together.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long-reach 10mm hex key is the only tool that may be unusual.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nNeedlenose pliers<\/li>\nLong-reach 10mm hex key<\/li>\nTorque wrench and 10mm socket<\/li>\nGrease<\/li>\nRag<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Remove the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll first need to remove the bearing clip retainer, which is located on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Use needlenose pliers to lift one side of the retainer, before removing the other.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The 10mm hex bolt hides inside the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Loosen the 10mm hex bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Take care when removing the bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The crank arm may need some wiggling to remove. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Make sure the wave washer comes off with the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
The 10mm crank bolt is located on the non-driveside on current 12-speed Campagnolo cranksets, as well as Ekar. However, it\u2019s located on the driveside for older generations.<\/p>\n
Loosen the bolt with a long-reach 10mm hex key.<\/p>\n
Note Super-Record cranks use a reverse-threaded titanium bolt.<\/p>\n
Once loosened, remove both crank arms.<\/p>\nHow to refit a Campagnolo crankset<\/h2>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Give everything a clean prior to refitting.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply a thin layer of grease to the spindle and the crank bolt \u2013 we recommend Campagnolo Professional Grease.<\/p>\n
Install the driveside crank arm and then the non-driveside. Push the two arms together so that the geared teeth of the Hirth joint engage together. This can be fiddly.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You should feel the geared teeth contact each other from inside the bottom bracket shell.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the 10mm hex bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo recommends a 42-60Nm torque \u2013 we\u2019d advise aiming towards the lower end of the scale, while making sure the crankset is free of play.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t forget the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the bearing clip on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Locate one hole, then use a needlenose plier to guide the clip into the second hole.<\/p>\nHow to replace a three-piece crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing this square-taper crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Three-piece cranksets comprise of two crank arms and a separate bottom bracket unit, which contains the crank spindle. There are two types of interface \u2013 square-taper or splined. A number of splined interfaces exist but Octalink and ISIS are the most common.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n Feed the driveside crank arm through the bottom bracket shell, taking care to replace any relevant spacers or dust seals.<\/p>\n You may need to use a rubber mallet to fully seat the arm. Again, consider covering the face of the crankset with a rag.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Look out for the cut-out.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Grease the splines of the spindle and install the non-driveside crank arm.<\/p>\n
There\u2019s a mark on the opposite side of the spindle with a hole to ensure the non-driveside crankarm is perfectly fitted 180 degrees apart from the driveside.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t over-tighten the cap.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Grease the threads of the Hollowtech cap and install it into the non-driveside crank arm. Shimano quotes a low 0.7-1.5Nm torque.<\/p>\n
If you over-tighten the cap, the crank arm will be pushed too far into the bearings, resulting in notchy operation. You can inspect your work by rotating the cranks to check if it\u2019s too tight or too loose.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure the plate is in the correct orientation.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Press down the plate and equally tighten the two pinch bolts to 12-15Nm.<\/p>\n
Before fitting the chain onto the chainrings, inspect for any play.<\/p>\nHow to replace a self-extracting crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing and refitting a SRAM Rival eTap AXS crankset in this example.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Many cranksets, such as those from SRAM and FSA, use a self-extracting design.<\/p>\n
This enables the crankset to be removed without a crank puller.<\/p>\n
The main crank bolt that secures the crankset to the spindle essentially functions as a crank puller when the bolt is loosened, in combination with a retaining ring. Therefore, only one tool is required to remove the crankset.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You\u2019ll want a good-quality 8mm hex key with lots of leverage.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nHex keys<\/li>\nTorque wrench and appropriate socket<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Loosen the main crank bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
There can be variations in which crank arm the main crank bolt is located. On SRAM DUB cranksets, it is on the driveside.<\/p>\n
Regardless of which side it is on, begin by loosening the crank bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long ratchet or breaker bar could be the friend you need.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
The crank bolt can take quite some force to undo (especially on SRAM DUB cranksets), so we\u2019d recommend keeping the chain on the big chainring to avoid skinning your knuckles. We\u2019d also advise performing this step with the bike on the ground so gravity helps you.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> 101 uses of a toe strap\u2026<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If you\u2019re finding it difficult to loosen, consider using a long ratchet handle or breaker bar for additional purchase.<\/p>\n
You could consider using a toe strap to secure the non-driveside crank arm to the non-driveside chainstay.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Heave ho!<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Once the bolt breaks free, loosen until the arm slides off and away from the spindle. There will be a period when there is more resistance in turning the bolt.\u00a0 This is typical \u2013 keep going until the crank arm is free.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you don\u2019t lose any spacers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Take note of any spacers, wavey washers or dust seals that come off with the crank arm.<\/p>\n
Remove the opposing crank arm \u2013 it may require some persuasion with a rubber mallet.<\/p>\nHow to refit a self-extracting crankset<\/h3>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Grease the spindle.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply grease to the spindle, the splines of the crank arm and on the inside of the threads.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> In goes the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the crank arm that doesn\u2019t contain the main crank bolt \u2013 on this SRAM Rival crank, this is the non-driveside.<\/p>\n
You may need to use a rubber mallet to tap it into place. Make sure you refit any washers or seals.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you fit the driveside 180 degrees from the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the opposing crank arm. It can be a little fiddly making sure it is correctly positioned 180 degrees from the non-driveside. We\u2019d recommend holding onto the arm as you initially tighten the main crank bolt.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Tighten the crank bolt to the manufacturer\u2019s recommended spec \u2013 a high 48-54Nm for this SRAM DUB crankset.<\/p>\n
Inspect for play.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Be careful to avoid rounding the small 2mm bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll need to adjust the preload if there is any play. Loosen the preload adjuster bolt and turn in the direction of the + arrow. Tighten until the edges of the preload collar touch.<\/p>\n
Do not over-tighten the preload adjuster, because you risk damaging the bottom bracket bearing. Inspect for play.<\/p>\nHow to remove a Campagnolo UltraTorque crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Campagnolo cranksets differ from other manufacturers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
There are two types of Campagnolo cranks \u2013 UltraTorque and PowerTorque.<\/p>\n
The PowerTorque standard is now largely defunct, so we\u2019ll be concentrating on UltraTorque here.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The system uses a Hirth joint.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo cranks differ from other manufacturers in that they are a two-piece system. The spindle uses a Hirth joint \u2013 this sees the spindle split in the middle with a series of interlocking teeth.<\/p>\n
Unlike other manufacturers, where the bottom bracket bearings are a separate unit, bearings on Campagnolo systems are pressed directly onto the spindle.<\/p>\n
Like a self-extracting design, a single crank bolt holds both arms together.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long-reach 10mm hex key is the only tool that may be unusual.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nNeedlenose pliers<\/li>\nLong-reach 10mm hex key<\/li>\nTorque wrench and 10mm socket<\/li>\nGrease<\/li>\nRag<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Remove the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll first need to remove the bearing clip retainer, which is located on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Use needlenose pliers to lift one side of the retainer, before removing the other.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The 10mm hex bolt hides inside the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Loosen the 10mm hex bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Take care when removing the bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The crank arm may need some wiggling to remove. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Make sure the wave washer comes off with the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
The 10mm crank bolt is located on the non-driveside on current 12-speed Campagnolo cranksets, as well as Ekar. However, it\u2019s located on the driveside for older generations.<\/p>\n
Loosen the bolt with a long-reach 10mm hex key.<\/p>\n
Note Super-Record cranks use a reverse-threaded titanium bolt.<\/p>\n
Once loosened, remove both crank arms.<\/p>\nHow to refit a Campagnolo crankset<\/h2>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Give everything a clean prior to refitting.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply a thin layer of grease to the spindle and the crank bolt \u2013 we recommend Campagnolo Professional Grease.<\/p>\n
Install the driveside crank arm and then the non-driveside. Push the two arms together so that the geared teeth of the Hirth joint engage together. This can be fiddly.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You should feel the geared teeth contact each other from inside the bottom bracket shell.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the 10mm hex bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo recommends a 42-60Nm torque \u2013 we\u2019d advise aiming towards the lower end of the scale, while making sure the crankset is free of play.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t forget the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the bearing clip on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Locate one hole, then use a needlenose plier to guide the clip into the second hole.<\/p>\nHow to replace a three-piece crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing this square-taper crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Three-piece cranksets comprise of two crank arms and a separate bottom bracket unit, which contains the crank spindle. There are two types of interface \u2013 square-taper or splined. A number of splined interfaces exist but Octalink and ISIS are the most common.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n Grease the splines of the spindle and install the non-driveside crank arm.<\/p>\n There\u2019s a mark on the opposite side of the spindle with a hole to ensure the non-driveside crankarm is perfectly fitted 180 degrees apart from the driveside.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t over-tighten the cap.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Grease the threads of the Hollowtech cap and install it into the non-driveside crank arm. Shimano quotes a low 0.7-1.5Nm torque.<\/p>\n
If you over-tighten the cap, the crank arm will be pushed too far into the bearings, resulting in notchy operation. You can inspect your work by rotating the cranks to check if it\u2019s too tight or too loose.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure the plate is in the correct orientation.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Press down the plate and equally tighten the two pinch bolts to 12-15Nm.<\/p>\n
Before fitting the chain onto the chainrings, inspect for any play.<\/p>\nHow to replace a self-extracting crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing and refitting a SRAM Rival eTap AXS crankset in this example.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Many cranksets, such as those from SRAM and FSA, use a self-extracting design.<\/p>\n
This enables the crankset to be removed without a crank puller.<\/p>\n
The main crank bolt that secures the crankset to the spindle essentially functions as a crank puller when the bolt is loosened, in combination with a retaining ring. Therefore, only one tool is required to remove the crankset.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You\u2019ll want a good-quality 8mm hex key with lots of leverage.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nHex keys<\/li>\nTorque wrench and appropriate socket<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Loosen the main crank bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
There can be variations in which crank arm the main crank bolt is located. On SRAM DUB cranksets, it is on the driveside.<\/p>\n
Regardless of which side it is on, begin by loosening the crank bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long ratchet or breaker bar could be the friend you need.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
The crank bolt can take quite some force to undo (especially on SRAM DUB cranksets), so we\u2019d recommend keeping the chain on the big chainring to avoid skinning your knuckles. We\u2019d also advise performing this step with the bike on the ground so gravity helps you.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> 101 uses of a toe strap\u2026<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If you\u2019re finding it difficult to loosen, consider using a long ratchet handle or breaker bar for additional purchase.<\/p>\n
You could consider using a toe strap to secure the non-driveside crank arm to the non-driveside chainstay.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Heave ho!<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Once the bolt breaks free, loosen until the arm slides off and away from the spindle. There will be a period when there is more resistance in turning the bolt.\u00a0 This is typical \u2013 keep going until the crank arm is free.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you don\u2019t lose any spacers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Take note of any spacers, wavey washers or dust seals that come off with the crank arm.<\/p>\n
Remove the opposing crank arm \u2013 it may require some persuasion with a rubber mallet.<\/p>\nHow to refit a self-extracting crankset<\/h3>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Grease the spindle.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply grease to the spindle, the splines of the crank arm and on the inside of the threads.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> In goes the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the crank arm that doesn\u2019t contain the main crank bolt \u2013 on this SRAM Rival crank, this is the non-driveside.<\/p>\n
You may need to use a rubber mallet to tap it into place. Make sure you refit any washers or seals.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you fit the driveside 180 degrees from the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the opposing crank arm. It can be a little fiddly making sure it is correctly positioned 180 degrees from the non-driveside. We\u2019d recommend holding onto the arm as you initially tighten the main crank bolt.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Tighten the crank bolt to the manufacturer\u2019s recommended spec \u2013 a high 48-54Nm for this SRAM DUB crankset.<\/p>\n
Inspect for play.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Be careful to avoid rounding the small 2mm bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll need to adjust the preload if there is any play. Loosen the preload adjuster bolt and turn in the direction of the + arrow. Tighten until the edges of the preload collar touch.<\/p>\n
Do not over-tighten the preload adjuster, because you risk damaging the bottom bracket bearing. Inspect for play.<\/p>\nHow to remove a Campagnolo UltraTorque crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Campagnolo cranksets differ from other manufacturers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
There are two types of Campagnolo cranks \u2013 UltraTorque and PowerTorque.<\/p>\n
The PowerTorque standard is now largely defunct, so we\u2019ll be concentrating on UltraTorque here.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The system uses a Hirth joint.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo cranks differ from other manufacturers in that they are a two-piece system. The spindle uses a Hirth joint \u2013 this sees the spindle split in the middle with a series of interlocking teeth.<\/p>\n
Unlike other manufacturers, where the bottom bracket bearings are a separate unit, bearings on Campagnolo systems are pressed directly onto the spindle.<\/p>\n
Like a self-extracting design, a single crank bolt holds both arms together.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long-reach 10mm hex key is the only tool that may be unusual.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nNeedlenose pliers<\/li>\nLong-reach 10mm hex key<\/li>\nTorque wrench and 10mm socket<\/li>\nGrease<\/li>\nRag<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Remove the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll first need to remove the bearing clip retainer, which is located on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Use needlenose pliers to lift one side of the retainer, before removing the other.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The 10mm hex bolt hides inside the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Loosen the 10mm hex bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Take care when removing the bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The crank arm may need some wiggling to remove. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Make sure the wave washer comes off with the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
The 10mm crank bolt is located on the non-driveside on current 12-speed Campagnolo cranksets, as well as Ekar. However, it\u2019s located on the driveside for older generations.<\/p>\n
Loosen the bolt with a long-reach 10mm hex key.<\/p>\n
Note Super-Record cranks use a reverse-threaded titanium bolt.<\/p>\n
Once loosened, remove both crank arms.<\/p>\nHow to refit a Campagnolo crankset<\/h2>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Give everything a clean prior to refitting.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply a thin layer of grease to the spindle and the crank bolt \u2013 we recommend Campagnolo Professional Grease.<\/p>\n
Install the driveside crank arm and then the non-driveside. Push the two arms together so that the geared teeth of the Hirth joint engage together. This can be fiddly.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You should feel the geared teeth contact each other from inside the bottom bracket shell.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the 10mm hex bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo recommends a 42-60Nm torque \u2013 we\u2019d advise aiming towards the lower end of the scale, while making sure the crankset is free of play.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t forget the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the bearing clip on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Locate one hole, then use a needlenose plier to guide the clip into the second hole.<\/p>\nHow to replace a three-piece crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing this square-taper crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Three-piece cranksets comprise of two crank arms and a separate bottom bracket unit, which contains the crank spindle. There are two types of interface \u2013 square-taper or splined. A number of splined interfaces exist but Octalink and ISIS are the most common.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n Grease the threads of the Hollowtech cap and install it into the non-driveside crank arm. Shimano quotes a low 0.7-1.5Nm torque.<\/p>\n If you over-tighten the cap, the crank arm will be pushed too far into the bearings, resulting in notchy operation. You can inspect your work by rotating the cranks to check if it\u2019s too tight or too loose.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure the plate is in the correct orientation.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Press down the plate and equally tighten the two pinch bolts to 12-15Nm.<\/p>\n
Before fitting the chain onto the chainrings, inspect for any play.<\/p>\nHow to replace a self-extracting crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing and refitting a SRAM Rival eTap AXS crankset in this example.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Many cranksets, such as those from SRAM and FSA, use a self-extracting design.<\/p>\n
This enables the crankset to be removed without a crank puller.<\/p>\n
The main crank bolt that secures the crankset to the spindle essentially functions as a crank puller when the bolt is loosened, in combination with a retaining ring. Therefore, only one tool is required to remove the crankset.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You\u2019ll want a good-quality 8mm hex key with lots of leverage.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nHex keys<\/li>\nTorque wrench and appropriate socket<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Loosen the main crank bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
There can be variations in which crank arm the main crank bolt is located. On SRAM DUB cranksets, it is on the driveside.<\/p>\n
Regardless of which side it is on, begin by loosening the crank bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long ratchet or breaker bar could be the friend you need.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
The crank bolt can take quite some force to undo (especially on SRAM DUB cranksets), so we\u2019d recommend keeping the chain on the big chainring to avoid skinning your knuckles. We\u2019d also advise performing this step with the bike on the ground so gravity helps you.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> 101 uses of a toe strap\u2026<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If you\u2019re finding it difficult to loosen, consider using a long ratchet handle or breaker bar for additional purchase.<\/p>\n
You could consider using a toe strap to secure the non-driveside crank arm to the non-driveside chainstay.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Heave ho!<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Once the bolt breaks free, loosen until the arm slides off and away from the spindle. There will be a period when there is more resistance in turning the bolt.\u00a0 This is typical \u2013 keep going until the crank arm is free.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you don\u2019t lose any spacers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Take note of any spacers, wavey washers or dust seals that come off with the crank arm.<\/p>\n
Remove the opposing crank arm \u2013 it may require some persuasion with a rubber mallet.<\/p>\nHow to refit a self-extracting crankset<\/h3>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Grease the spindle.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply grease to the spindle, the splines of the crank arm and on the inside of the threads.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> In goes the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the crank arm that doesn\u2019t contain the main crank bolt \u2013 on this SRAM Rival crank, this is the non-driveside.<\/p>\n
You may need to use a rubber mallet to tap it into place. Make sure you refit any washers or seals.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you fit the driveside 180 degrees from the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the opposing crank arm. It can be a little fiddly making sure it is correctly positioned 180 degrees from the non-driveside. We\u2019d recommend holding onto the arm as you initially tighten the main crank bolt.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Tighten the crank bolt to the manufacturer\u2019s recommended spec \u2013 a high 48-54Nm for this SRAM DUB crankset.<\/p>\n
Inspect for play.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Be careful to avoid rounding the small 2mm bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll need to adjust the preload if there is any play. Loosen the preload adjuster bolt and turn in the direction of the + arrow. Tighten until the edges of the preload collar touch.<\/p>\n
Do not over-tighten the preload adjuster, because you risk damaging the bottom bracket bearing. Inspect for play.<\/p>\nHow to remove a Campagnolo UltraTorque crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Campagnolo cranksets differ from other manufacturers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
There are two types of Campagnolo cranks \u2013 UltraTorque and PowerTorque.<\/p>\n
The PowerTorque standard is now largely defunct, so we\u2019ll be concentrating on UltraTorque here.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The system uses a Hirth joint.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo cranks differ from other manufacturers in that they are a two-piece system. The spindle uses a Hirth joint \u2013 this sees the spindle split in the middle with a series of interlocking teeth.<\/p>\n
Unlike other manufacturers, where the bottom bracket bearings are a separate unit, bearings on Campagnolo systems are pressed directly onto the spindle.<\/p>\n
Like a self-extracting design, a single crank bolt holds both arms together.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long-reach 10mm hex key is the only tool that may be unusual.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nNeedlenose pliers<\/li>\nLong-reach 10mm hex key<\/li>\nTorque wrench and 10mm socket<\/li>\nGrease<\/li>\nRag<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Remove the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll first need to remove the bearing clip retainer, which is located on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Use needlenose pliers to lift one side of the retainer, before removing the other.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The 10mm hex bolt hides inside the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Loosen the 10mm hex bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Take care when removing the bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The crank arm may need some wiggling to remove. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Make sure the wave washer comes off with the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
The 10mm crank bolt is located on the non-driveside on current 12-speed Campagnolo cranksets, as well as Ekar. However, it\u2019s located on the driveside for older generations.<\/p>\n
Loosen the bolt with a long-reach 10mm hex key.<\/p>\n
Note Super-Record cranks use a reverse-threaded titanium bolt.<\/p>\n
Once loosened, remove both crank arms.<\/p>\nHow to refit a Campagnolo crankset<\/h2>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Give everything a clean prior to refitting.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply a thin layer of grease to the spindle and the crank bolt \u2013 we recommend Campagnolo Professional Grease.<\/p>\n
Install the driveside crank arm and then the non-driveside. Push the two arms together so that the geared teeth of the Hirth joint engage together. This can be fiddly.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You should feel the geared teeth contact each other from inside the bottom bracket shell.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the 10mm hex bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo recommends a 42-60Nm torque \u2013 we\u2019d advise aiming towards the lower end of the scale, while making sure the crankset is free of play.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t forget the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the bearing clip on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Locate one hole, then use a needlenose plier to guide the clip into the second hole.<\/p>\nHow to replace a three-piece crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing this square-taper crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Three-piece cranksets comprise of two crank arms and a separate bottom bracket unit, which contains the crank spindle. There are two types of interface \u2013 square-taper or splined. A number of splined interfaces exist but Octalink and ISIS are the most common.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n Press down the plate and equally tighten the two pinch bolts to 12-15Nm.<\/p>\n Before fitting the chain onto the chainrings, inspect for any play.<\/p>\nHow to replace a self-extracting crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing and refitting a SRAM Rival eTap AXS crankset in this example.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Many cranksets, such as those from SRAM and FSA, use a self-extracting design.<\/p>\n
This enables the crankset to be removed without a crank puller.<\/p>\n
The main crank bolt that secures the crankset to the spindle essentially functions as a crank puller when the bolt is loosened, in combination with a retaining ring. Therefore, only one tool is required to remove the crankset.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You\u2019ll want a good-quality 8mm hex key with lots of leverage.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nHex keys<\/li>\nTorque wrench and appropriate socket<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Loosen the main crank bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
There can be variations in which crank arm the main crank bolt is located. On SRAM DUB cranksets, it is on the driveside.<\/p>\n
Regardless of which side it is on, begin by loosening the crank bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long ratchet or breaker bar could be the friend you need.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
The crank bolt can take quite some force to undo (especially on SRAM DUB cranksets), so we\u2019d recommend keeping the chain on the big chainring to avoid skinning your knuckles. We\u2019d also advise performing this step with the bike on the ground so gravity helps you.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> 101 uses of a toe strap\u2026<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If you\u2019re finding it difficult to loosen, consider using a long ratchet handle or breaker bar for additional purchase.<\/p>\n
You could consider using a toe strap to secure the non-driveside crank arm to the non-driveside chainstay.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Heave ho!<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Once the bolt breaks free, loosen until the arm slides off and away from the spindle. There will be a period when there is more resistance in turning the bolt.\u00a0 This is typical \u2013 keep going until the crank arm is free.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you don\u2019t lose any spacers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Take note of any spacers, wavey washers or dust seals that come off with the crank arm.<\/p>\n
Remove the opposing crank arm \u2013 it may require some persuasion with a rubber mallet.<\/p>\nHow to refit a self-extracting crankset<\/h3>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Grease the spindle.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply grease to the spindle, the splines of the crank arm and on the inside of the threads.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> In goes the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the crank arm that doesn\u2019t contain the main crank bolt \u2013 on this SRAM Rival crank, this is the non-driveside.<\/p>\n
You may need to use a rubber mallet to tap it into place. Make sure you refit any washers or seals.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you fit the driveside 180 degrees from the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the opposing crank arm. It can be a little fiddly making sure it is correctly positioned 180 degrees from the non-driveside. We\u2019d recommend holding onto the arm as you initially tighten the main crank bolt.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Tighten the crank bolt to the manufacturer\u2019s recommended spec \u2013 a high 48-54Nm for this SRAM DUB crankset.<\/p>\n
Inspect for play.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Be careful to avoid rounding the small 2mm bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll need to adjust the preload if there is any play. Loosen the preload adjuster bolt and turn in the direction of the + arrow. Tighten until the edges of the preload collar touch.<\/p>\n
Do not over-tighten the preload adjuster, because you risk damaging the bottom bracket bearing. Inspect for play.<\/p>\nHow to remove a Campagnolo UltraTorque crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Campagnolo cranksets differ from other manufacturers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
There are two types of Campagnolo cranks \u2013 UltraTorque and PowerTorque.<\/p>\n
The PowerTorque standard is now largely defunct, so we\u2019ll be concentrating on UltraTorque here.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The system uses a Hirth joint.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo cranks differ from other manufacturers in that they are a two-piece system. The spindle uses a Hirth joint \u2013 this sees the spindle split in the middle with a series of interlocking teeth.<\/p>\n
Unlike other manufacturers, where the bottom bracket bearings are a separate unit, bearings on Campagnolo systems are pressed directly onto the spindle.<\/p>\n
Like a self-extracting design, a single crank bolt holds both arms together.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long-reach 10mm hex key is the only tool that may be unusual.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nNeedlenose pliers<\/li>\nLong-reach 10mm hex key<\/li>\nTorque wrench and 10mm socket<\/li>\nGrease<\/li>\nRag<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Remove the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll first need to remove the bearing clip retainer, which is located on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Use needlenose pliers to lift one side of the retainer, before removing the other.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The 10mm hex bolt hides inside the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Loosen the 10mm hex bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Take care when removing the bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The crank arm may need some wiggling to remove. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Make sure the wave washer comes off with the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
The 10mm crank bolt is located on the non-driveside on current 12-speed Campagnolo cranksets, as well as Ekar. However, it\u2019s located on the driveside for older generations.<\/p>\n
Loosen the bolt with a long-reach 10mm hex key.<\/p>\n
Note Super-Record cranks use a reverse-threaded titanium bolt.<\/p>\n
Once loosened, remove both crank arms.<\/p>\nHow to refit a Campagnolo crankset<\/h2>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Give everything a clean prior to refitting.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply a thin layer of grease to the spindle and the crank bolt \u2013 we recommend Campagnolo Professional Grease.<\/p>\n
Install the driveside crank arm and then the non-driveside. Push the two arms together so that the geared teeth of the Hirth joint engage together. This can be fiddly.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You should feel the geared teeth contact each other from inside the bottom bracket shell.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the 10mm hex bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo recommends a 42-60Nm torque \u2013 we\u2019d advise aiming towards the lower end of the scale, while making sure the crankset is free of play.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t forget the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the bearing clip on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Locate one hole, then use a needlenose plier to guide the clip into the second hole.<\/p>\nHow to replace a three-piece crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing this square-taper crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Three-piece cranksets comprise of two crank arms and a separate bottom bracket unit, which contains the crank spindle. There are two types of interface \u2013 square-taper or splined. A number of splined interfaces exist but Octalink and ISIS are the most common.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n Many cranksets, such as those from SRAM and FSA, use a self-extracting design.<\/p>\n This enables the crankset to be removed without a crank puller.<\/p>\n The main crank bolt that secures the crankset to the spindle essentially functions as a crank puller when the bolt is loosened, in combination with a retaining ring. Therefore, only one tool is required to remove the crankset.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You\u2019ll want a good-quality 8mm hex key with lots of leverage.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nHex keys<\/li>\nTorque wrench and appropriate socket<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Loosen the main crank bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
There can be variations in which crank arm the main crank bolt is located. On SRAM DUB cranksets, it is on the driveside.<\/p>\n
Regardless of which side it is on, begin by loosening the crank bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long ratchet or breaker bar could be the friend you need.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
The crank bolt can take quite some force to undo (especially on SRAM DUB cranksets), so we\u2019d recommend keeping the chain on the big chainring to avoid skinning your knuckles. We\u2019d also advise performing this step with the bike on the ground so gravity helps you.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> 101 uses of a toe strap\u2026<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If you\u2019re finding it difficult to loosen, consider using a long ratchet handle or breaker bar for additional purchase.<\/p>\n
You could consider using a toe strap to secure the non-driveside crank arm to the non-driveside chainstay.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Heave ho!<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Once the bolt breaks free, loosen until the arm slides off and away from the spindle. There will be a period when there is more resistance in turning the bolt.\u00a0 This is typical \u2013 keep going until the crank arm is free.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you don\u2019t lose any spacers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Take note of any spacers, wavey washers or dust seals that come off with the crank arm.<\/p>\n
Remove the opposing crank arm \u2013 it may require some persuasion with a rubber mallet.<\/p>\nHow to refit a self-extracting crankset<\/h3>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Grease the spindle.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply grease to the spindle, the splines of the crank arm and on the inside of the threads.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> In goes the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the crank arm that doesn\u2019t contain the main crank bolt \u2013 on this SRAM Rival crank, this is the non-driveside.<\/p>\n
You may need to use a rubber mallet to tap it into place. Make sure you refit any washers or seals.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you fit the driveside 180 degrees from the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the opposing crank arm. It can be a little fiddly making sure it is correctly positioned 180 degrees from the non-driveside. We\u2019d recommend holding onto the arm as you initially tighten the main crank bolt.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Tighten the crank bolt to the manufacturer\u2019s recommended spec \u2013 a high 48-54Nm for this SRAM DUB crankset.<\/p>\n
Inspect for play.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Be careful to avoid rounding the small 2mm bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll need to adjust the preload if there is any play. Loosen the preload adjuster bolt and turn in the direction of the + arrow. Tighten until the edges of the preload collar touch.<\/p>\n
Do not over-tighten the preload adjuster, because you risk damaging the bottom bracket bearing. Inspect for play.<\/p>\nHow to remove a Campagnolo UltraTorque crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Campagnolo cranksets differ from other manufacturers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
There are two types of Campagnolo cranks \u2013 UltraTorque and PowerTorque.<\/p>\n
The PowerTorque standard is now largely defunct, so we\u2019ll be concentrating on UltraTorque here.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The system uses a Hirth joint.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo cranks differ from other manufacturers in that they are a two-piece system. The spindle uses a Hirth joint \u2013 this sees the spindle split in the middle with a series of interlocking teeth.<\/p>\n
Unlike other manufacturers, where the bottom bracket bearings are a separate unit, bearings on Campagnolo systems are pressed directly onto the spindle.<\/p>\n
Like a self-extracting design, a single crank bolt holds both arms together.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long-reach 10mm hex key is the only tool that may be unusual.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nNeedlenose pliers<\/li>\nLong-reach 10mm hex key<\/li>\nTorque wrench and 10mm socket<\/li>\nGrease<\/li>\nRag<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Remove the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll first need to remove the bearing clip retainer, which is located on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Use needlenose pliers to lift one side of the retainer, before removing the other.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The 10mm hex bolt hides inside the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Loosen the 10mm hex bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Take care when removing the bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The crank arm may need some wiggling to remove. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Make sure the wave washer comes off with the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
The 10mm crank bolt is located on the non-driveside on current 12-speed Campagnolo cranksets, as well as Ekar. However, it\u2019s located on the driveside for older generations.<\/p>\n
Loosen the bolt with a long-reach 10mm hex key.<\/p>\n
Note Super-Record cranks use a reverse-threaded titanium bolt.<\/p>\n
Once loosened, remove both crank arms.<\/p>\nHow to refit a Campagnolo crankset<\/h2>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Give everything a clean prior to refitting.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply a thin layer of grease to the spindle and the crank bolt \u2013 we recommend Campagnolo Professional Grease.<\/p>\n
Install the driveside crank arm and then the non-driveside. Push the two arms together so that the geared teeth of the Hirth joint engage together. This can be fiddly.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You should feel the geared teeth contact each other from inside the bottom bracket shell.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the 10mm hex bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo recommends a 42-60Nm torque \u2013 we\u2019d advise aiming towards the lower end of the scale, while making sure the crankset is free of play.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t forget the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the bearing clip on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Locate one hole, then use a needlenose plier to guide the clip into the second hole.<\/p>\nHow to replace a three-piece crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing this square-taper crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Three-piece cranksets comprise of two crank arms and a separate bottom bracket unit, which contains the crank spindle. There are two types of interface \u2013 square-taper or splined. A number of splined interfaces exist but Octalink and ISIS are the most common.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n There can be variations in which crank arm the main crank bolt is located. On SRAM DUB cranksets, it is on the driveside.<\/p>\n Regardless of which side it is on, begin by loosening the crank bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long ratchet or breaker bar could be the friend you need.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
The crank bolt can take quite some force to undo (especially on SRAM DUB cranksets), so we\u2019d recommend keeping the chain on the big chainring to avoid skinning your knuckles. We\u2019d also advise performing this step with the bike on the ground so gravity helps you.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> 101 uses of a toe strap\u2026<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If you\u2019re finding it difficult to loosen, consider using a long ratchet handle or breaker bar for additional purchase.<\/p>\n
You could consider using a toe strap to secure the non-driveside crank arm to the non-driveside chainstay.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Heave ho!<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Once the bolt breaks free, loosen until the arm slides off and away from the spindle. There will be a period when there is more resistance in turning the bolt.\u00a0 This is typical \u2013 keep going until the crank arm is free.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you don\u2019t lose any spacers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Take note of any spacers, wavey washers or dust seals that come off with the crank arm.<\/p>\n
Remove the opposing crank arm \u2013 it may require some persuasion with a rubber mallet.<\/p>\nHow to refit a self-extracting crankset<\/h3>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Grease the spindle.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply grease to the spindle, the splines of the crank arm and on the inside of the threads.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> In goes the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the crank arm that doesn\u2019t contain the main crank bolt \u2013 on this SRAM Rival crank, this is the non-driveside.<\/p>\n
You may need to use a rubber mallet to tap it into place. Make sure you refit any washers or seals.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you fit the driveside 180 degrees from the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the opposing crank arm. It can be a little fiddly making sure it is correctly positioned 180 degrees from the non-driveside. We\u2019d recommend holding onto the arm as you initially tighten the main crank bolt.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Tighten the crank bolt to the manufacturer\u2019s recommended spec \u2013 a high 48-54Nm for this SRAM DUB crankset.<\/p>\n
Inspect for play.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Be careful to avoid rounding the small 2mm bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll need to adjust the preload if there is any play. Loosen the preload adjuster bolt and turn in the direction of the + arrow. Tighten until the edges of the preload collar touch.<\/p>\n
Do not over-tighten the preload adjuster, because you risk damaging the bottom bracket bearing. Inspect for play.<\/p>\nHow to remove a Campagnolo UltraTorque crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Campagnolo cranksets differ from other manufacturers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
There are two types of Campagnolo cranks \u2013 UltraTorque and PowerTorque.<\/p>\n
The PowerTorque standard is now largely defunct, so we\u2019ll be concentrating on UltraTorque here.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The system uses a Hirth joint.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo cranks differ from other manufacturers in that they are a two-piece system. The spindle uses a Hirth joint \u2013 this sees the spindle split in the middle with a series of interlocking teeth.<\/p>\n
Unlike other manufacturers, where the bottom bracket bearings are a separate unit, bearings on Campagnolo systems are pressed directly onto the spindle.<\/p>\n
Like a self-extracting design, a single crank bolt holds both arms together.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long-reach 10mm hex key is the only tool that may be unusual.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nNeedlenose pliers<\/li>\nLong-reach 10mm hex key<\/li>\nTorque wrench and 10mm socket<\/li>\nGrease<\/li>\nRag<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Remove the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll first need to remove the bearing clip retainer, which is located on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Use needlenose pliers to lift one side of the retainer, before removing the other.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The 10mm hex bolt hides inside the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Loosen the 10mm hex bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Take care when removing the bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The crank arm may need some wiggling to remove. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Make sure the wave washer comes off with the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
The 10mm crank bolt is located on the non-driveside on current 12-speed Campagnolo cranksets, as well as Ekar. However, it\u2019s located on the driveside for older generations.<\/p>\n
Loosen the bolt with a long-reach 10mm hex key.<\/p>\n
Note Super-Record cranks use a reverse-threaded titanium bolt.<\/p>\n
Once loosened, remove both crank arms.<\/p>\nHow to refit a Campagnolo crankset<\/h2>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Give everything a clean prior to refitting.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply a thin layer of grease to the spindle and the crank bolt \u2013 we recommend Campagnolo Professional Grease.<\/p>\n
Install the driveside crank arm and then the non-driveside. Push the two arms together so that the geared teeth of the Hirth joint engage together. This can be fiddly.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You should feel the geared teeth contact each other from inside the bottom bracket shell.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the 10mm hex bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo recommends a 42-60Nm torque \u2013 we\u2019d advise aiming towards the lower end of the scale, while making sure the crankset is free of play.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t forget the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the bearing clip on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Locate one hole, then use a needlenose plier to guide the clip into the second hole.<\/p>\nHow to replace a three-piece crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing this square-taper crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Three-piece cranksets comprise of two crank arms and a separate bottom bracket unit, which contains the crank spindle. There are two types of interface \u2013 square-taper or splined. A number of splined interfaces exist but Octalink and ISIS are the most common.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n The crank bolt can take quite some force to undo (especially on SRAM DUB cranksets), so we\u2019d recommend keeping the chain on the big chainring to avoid skinning your knuckles. We\u2019d also advise performing this step with the bike on the ground so gravity helps you.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> 101 uses of a toe strap\u2026<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
If you\u2019re finding it difficult to loosen, consider using a long ratchet handle or breaker bar for additional purchase.<\/p>\n
You could consider using a toe strap to secure the non-driveside crank arm to the non-driveside chainstay.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Heave ho!<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Once the bolt breaks free, loosen until the arm slides off and away from the spindle. There will be a period when there is more resistance in turning the bolt.\u00a0 This is typical \u2013 keep going until the crank arm is free.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you don\u2019t lose any spacers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Take note of any spacers, wavey washers or dust seals that come off with the crank arm.<\/p>\n
Remove the opposing crank arm \u2013 it may require some persuasion with a rubber mallet.<\/p>\nHow to refit a self-extracting crankset<\/h3>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Grease the spindle.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply grease to the spindle, the splines of the crank arm and on the inside of the threads.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> In goes the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the crank arm that doesn\u2019t contain the main crank bolt \u2013 on this SRAM Rival crank, this is the non-driveside.<\/p>\n
You may need to use a rubber mallet to tap it into place. Make sure you refit any washers or seals.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you fit the driveside 180 degrees from the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the opposing crank arm. It can be a little fiddly making sure it is correctly positioned 180 degrees from the non-driveside. We\u2019d recommend holding onto the arm as you initially tighten the main crank bolt.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Tighten the crank bolt to the manufacturer\u2019s recommended spec \u2013 a high 48-54Nm for this SRAM DUB crankset.<\/p>\n
Inspect for play.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Be careful to avoid rounding the small 2mm bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll need to adjust the preload if there is any play. Loosen the preload adjuster bolt and turn in the direction of the + arrow. Tighten until the edges of the preload collar touch.<\/p>\n
Do not over-tighten the preload adjuster, because you risk damaging the bottom bracket bearing. Inspect for play.<\/p>\nHow to remove a Campagnolo UltraTorque crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Campagnolo cranksets differ from other manufacturers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
There are two types of Campagnolo cranks \u2013 UltraTorque and PowerTorque.<\/p>\n
The PowerTorque standard is now largely defunct, so we\u2019ll be concentrating on UltraTorque here.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The system uses a Hirth joint.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo cranks differ from other manufacturers in that they are a two-piece system. The spindle uses a Hirth joint \u2013 this sees the spindle split in the middle with a series of interlocking teeth.<\/p>\n
Unlike other manufacturers, where the bottom bracket bearings are a separate unit, bearings on Campagnolo systems are pressed directly onto the spindle.<\/p>\n
Like a self-extracting design, a single crank bolt holds both arms together.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long-reach 10mm hex key is the only tool that may be unusual.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nNeedlenose pliers<\/li>\nLong-reach 10mm hex key<\/li>\nTorque wrench and 10mm socket<\/li>\nGrease<\/li>\nRag<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Remove the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll first need to remove the bearing clip retainer, which is located on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Use needlenose pliers to lift one side of the retainer, before removing the other.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The 10mm hex bolt hides inside the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Loosen the 10mm hex bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Take care when removing the bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The crank arm may need some wiggling to remove. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Make sure the wave washer comes off with the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
The 10mm crank bolt is located on the non-driveside on current 12-speed Campagnolo cranksets, as well as Ekar. However, it\u2019s located on the driveside for older generations.<\/p>\n
Loosen the bolt with a long-reach 10mm hex key.<\/p>\n
Note Super-Record cranks use a reverse-threaded titanium bolt.<\/p>\n
Once loosened, remove both crank arms.<\/p>\nHow to refit a Campagnolo crankset<\/h2>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Give everything a clean prior to refitting.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply a thin layer of grease to the spindle and the crank bolt \u2013 we recommend Campagnolo Professional Grease.<\/p>\n
Install the driveside crank arm and then the non-driveside. Push the two arms together so that the geared teeth of the Hirth joint engage together. This can be fiddly.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You should feel the geared teeth contact each other from inside the bottom bracket shell.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the 10mm hex bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo recommends a 42-60Nm torque \u2013 we\u2019d advise aiming towards the lower end of the scale, while making sure the crankset is free of play.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t forget the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the bearing clip on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Locate one hole, then use a needlenose plier to guide the clip into the second hole.<\/p>\nHow to replace a three-piece crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing this square-taper crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Three-piece cranksets comprise of two crank arms and a separate bottom bracket unit, which contains the crank spindle. There are two types of interface \u2013 square-taper or splined. A number of splined interfaces exist but Octalink and ISIS are the most common.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n If you\u2019re finding it difficult to loosen, consider using a long ratchet handle or breaker bar for additional purchase.<\/p>\n You could consider using a toe strap to secure the non-driveside crank arm to the non-driveside chainstay.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Heave ho!<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Once the bolt breaks free, loosen until the arm slides off and away from the spindle. There will be a period when there is more resistance in turning the bolt.\u00a0 This is typical \u2013 keep going until the crank arm is free.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you don\u2019t lose any spacers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Take note of any spacers, wavey washers or dust seals that come off with the crank arm.<\/p>\n
Remove the opposing crank arm \u2013 it may require some persuasion with a rubber mallet.<\/p>\nHow to refit a self-extracting crankset<\/h3>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Grease the spindle.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply grease to the spindle, the splines of the crank arm and on the inside of the threads.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> In goes the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the crank arm that doesn\u2019t contain the main crank bolt \u2013 on this SRAM Rival crank, this is the non-driveside.<\/p>\n
You may need to use a rubber mallet to tap it into place. Make sure you refit any washers or seals.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you fit the driveside 180 degrees from the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the opposing crank arm. It can be a little fiddly making sure it is correctly positioned 180 degrees from the non-driveside. We\u2019d recommend holding onto the arm as you initially tighten the main crank bolt.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Tighten the crank bolt to the manufacturer\u2019s recommended spec \u2013 a high 48-54Nm for this SRAM DUB crankset.<\/p>\n
Inspect for play.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Be careful to avoid rounding the small 2mm bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll need to adjust the preload if there is any play. Loosen the preload adjuster bolt and turn in the direction of the + arrow. Tighten until the edges of the preload collar touch.<\/p>\n
Do not over-tighten the preload adjuster, because you risk damaging the bottom bracket bearing. Inspect for play.<\/p>\nHow to remove a Campagnolo UltraTorque crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Campagnolo cranksets differ from other manufacturers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
There are two types of Campagnolo cranks \u2013 UltraTorque and PowerTorque.<\/p>\n
The PowerTorque standard is now largely defunct, so we\u2019ll be concentrating on UltraTorque here.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The system uses a Hirth joint.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo cranks differ from other manufacturers in that they are a two-piece system. The spindle uses a Hirth joint \u2013 this sees the spindle split in the middle with a series of interlocking teeth.<\/p>\n
Unlike other manufacturers, where the bottom bracket bearings are a separate unit, bearings on Campagnolo systems are pressed directly onto the spindle.<\/p>\n
Like a self-extracting design, a single crank bolt holds both arms together.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long-reach 10mm hex key is the only tool that may be unusual.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nNeedlenose pliers<\/li>\nLong-reach 10mm hex key<\/li>\nTorque wrench and 10mm socket<\/li>\nGrease<\/li>\nRag<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Remove the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll first need to remove the bearing clip retainer, which is located on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Use needlenose pliers to lift one side of the retainer, before removing the other.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The 10mm hex bolt hides inside the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Loosen the 10mm hex bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Take care when removing the bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The crank arm may need some wiggling to remove. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Make sure the wave washer comes off with the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
The 10mm crank bolt is located on the non-driveside on current 12-speed Campagnolo cranksets, as well as Ekar. However, it\u2019s located on the driveside for older generations.<\/p>\n
Loosen the bolt with a long-reach 10mm hex key.<\/p>\n
Note Super-Record cranks use a reverse-threaded titanium bolt.<\/p>\n
Once loosened, remove both crank arms.<\/p>\nHow to refit a Campagnolo crankset<\/h2>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Give everything a clean prior to refitting.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply a thin layer of grease to the spindle and the crank bolt \u2013 we recommend Campagnolo Professional Grease.<\/p>\n
Install the driveside crank arm and then the non-driveside. Push the two arms together so that the geared teeth of the Hirth joint engage together. This can be fiddly.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You should feel the geared teeth contact each other from inside the bottom bracket shell.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the 10mm hex bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo recommends a 42-60Nm torque \u2013 we\u2019d advise aiming towards the lower end of the scale, while making sure the crankset is free of play.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t forget the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the bearing clip on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Locate one hole, then use a needlenose plier to guide the clip into the second hole.<\/p>\nHow to replace a three-piece crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing this square-taper crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Three-piece cranksets comprise of two crank arms and a separate bottom bracket unit, which contains the crank spindle. There are two types of interface \u2013 square-taper or splined. A number of splined interfaces exist but Octalink and ISIS are the most common.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n Once the bolt breaks free, loosen until the arm slides off and away from the spindle. There will be a period when there is more resistance in turning the bolt.\u00a0 This is typical \u2013 keep going until the crank arm is free.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you don\u2019t lose any spacers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Take note of any spacers, wavey washers or dust seals that come off with the crank arm.<\/p>\n
Remove the opposing crank arm \u2013 it may require some persuasion with a rubber mallet.<\/p>\nHow to refit a self-extracting crankset<\/h3>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Grease the spindle.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply grease to the spindle, the splines of the crank arm and on the inside of the threads.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> In goes the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the crank arm that doesn\u2019t contain the main crank bolt \u2013 on this SRAM Rival crank, this is the non-driveside.<\/p>\n
You may need to use a rubber mallet to tap it into place. Make sure you refit any washers or seals.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you fit the driveside 180 degrees from the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the opposing crank arm. It can be a little fiddly making sure it is correctly positioned 180 degrees from the non-driveside. We\u2019d recommend holding onto the arm as you initially tighten the main crank bolt.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Tighten the crank bolt to the manufacturer\u2019s recommended spec \u2013 a high 48-54Nm for this SRAM DUB crankset.<\/p>\n
Inspect for play.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Be careful to avoid rounding the small 2mm bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll need to adjust the preload if there is any play. Loosen the preload adjuster bolt and turn in the direction of the + arrow. Tighten until the edges of the preload collar touch.<\/p>\n
Do not over-tighten the preload adjuster, because you risk damaging the bottom bracket bearing. Inspect for play.<\/p>\nHow to remove a Campagnolo UltraTorque crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Campagnolo cranksets differ from other manufacturers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
There are two types of Campagnolo cranks \u2013 UltraTorque and PowerTorque.<\/p>\n
The PowerTorque standard is now largely defunct, so we\u2019ll be concentrating on UltraTorque here.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The system uses a Hirth joint.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo cranks differ from other manufacturers in that they are a two-piece system. The spindle uses a Hirth joint \u2013 this sees the spindle split in the middle with a series of interlocking teeth.<\/p>\n
Unlike other manufacturers, where the bottom bracket bearings are a separate unit, bearings on Campagnolo systems are pressed directly onto the spindle.<\/p>\n
Like a self-extracting design, a single crank bolt holds both arms together.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long-reach 10mm hex key is the only tool that may be unusual.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nNeedlenose pliers<\/li>\nLong-reach 10mm hex key<\/li>\nTorque wrench and 10mm socket<\/li>\nGrease<\/li>\nRag<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Remove the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll first need to remove the bearing clip retainer, which is located on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Use needlenose pliers to lift one side of the retainer, before removing the other.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The 10mm hex bolt hides inside the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Loosen the 10mm hex bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Take care when removing the bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The crank arm may need some wiggling to remove. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Make sure the wave washer comes off with the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
The 10mm crank bolt is located on the non-driveside on current 12-speed Campagnolo cranksets, as well as Ekar. However, it\u2019s located on the driveside for older generations.<\/p>\n
Loosen the bolt with a long-reach 10mm hex key.<\/p>\n
Note Super-Record cranks use a reverse-threaded titanium bolt.<\/p>\n
Once loosened, remove both crank arms.<\/p>\nHow to refit a Campagnolo crankset<\/h2>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Give everything a clean prior to refitting.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply a thin layer of grease to the spindle and the crank bolt \u2013 we recommend Campagnolo Professional Grease.<\/p>\n
Install the driveside crank arm and then the non-driveside. Push the two arms together so that the geared teeth of the Hirth joint engage together. This can be fiddly.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You should feel the geared teeth contact each other from inside the bottom bracket shell.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the 10mm hex bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo recommends a 42-60Nm torque \u2013 we\u2019d advise aiming towards the lower end of the scale, while making sure the crankset is free of play.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t forget the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the bearing clip on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Locate one hole, then use a needlenose plier to guide the clip into the second hole.<\/p>\nHow to replace a three-piece crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing this square-taper crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Three-piece cranksets comprise of two crank arms and a separate bottom bracket unit, which contains the crank spindle. There are two types of interface \u2013 square-taper or splined. A number of splined interfaces exist but Octalink and ISIS are the most common.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n Take note of any spacers, wavey washers or dust seals that come off with the crank arm.<\/p>\n Remove the opposing crank arm \u2013 it may require some persuasion with a rubber mallet.<\/p>\nHow to refit a self-extracting crankset<\/h3>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Grease the spindle.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply grease to the spindle, the splines of the crank arm and on the inside of the threads.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> In goes the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the crank arm that doesn\u2019t contain the main crank bolt \u2013 on this SRAM Rival crank, this is the non-driveside.<\/p>\n
You may need to use a rubber mallet to tap it into place. Make sure you refit any washers or seals.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you fit the driveside 180 degrees from the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the opposing crank arm. It can be a little fiddly making sure it is correctly positioned 180 degrees from the non-driveside. We\u2019d recommend holding onto the arm as you initially tighten the main crank bolt.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Tighten the crank bolt to the manufacturer\u2019s recommended spec \u2013 a high 48-54Nm for this SRAM DUB crankset.<\/p>\n
Inspect for play.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Be careful to avoid rounding the small 2mm bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll need to adjust the preload if there is any play. Loosen the preload adjuster bolt and turn in the direction of the + arrow. Tighten until the edges of the preload collar touch.<\/p>\n
Do not over-tighten the preload adjuster, because you risk damaging the bottom bracket bearing. Inspect for play.<\/p>\nHow to remove a Campagnolo UltraTorque crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Campagnolo cranksets differ from other manufacturers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
There are two types of Campagnolo cranks \u2013 UltraTorque and PowerTorque.<\/p>\n
The PowerTorque standard is now largely defunct, so we\u2019ll be concentrating on UltraTorque here.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The system uses a Hirth joint.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo cranks differ from other manufacturers in that they are a two-piece system. The spindle uses a Hirth joint \u2013 this sees the spindle split in the middle with a series of interlocking teeth.<\/p>\n
Unlike other manufacturers, where the bottom bracket bearings are a separate unit, bearings on Campagnolo systems are pressed directly onto the spindle.<\/p>\n
Like a self-extracting design, a single crank bolt holds both arms together.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long-reach 10mm hex key is the only tool that may be unusual.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nNeedlenose pliers<\/li>\nLong-reach 10mm hex key<\/li>\nTorque wrench and 10mm socket<\/li>\nGrease<\/li>\nRag<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Remove the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll first need to remove the bearing clip retainer, which is located on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Use needlenose pliers to lift one side of the retainer, before removing the other.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The 10mm hex bolt hides inside the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Loosen the 10mm hex bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Take care when removing the bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The crank arm may need some wiggling to remove. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Make sure the wave washer comes off with the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
The 10mm crank bolt is located on the non-driveside on current 12-speed Campagnolo cranksets, as well as Ekar. However, it\u2019s located on the driveside for older generations.<\/p>\n
Loosen the bolt with a long-reach 10mm hex key.<\/p>\n
Note Super-Record cranks use a reverse-threaded titanium bolt.<\/p>\n
Once loosened, remove both crank arms.<\/p>\nHow to refit a Campagnolo crankset<\/h2>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Give everything a clean prior to refitting.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply a thin layer of grease to the spindle and the crank bolt \u2013 we recommend Campagnolo Professional Grease.<\/p>\n
Install the driveside crank arm and then the non-driveside. Push the two arms together so that the geared teeth of the Hirth joint engage together. This can be fiddly.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You should feel the geared teeth contact each other from inside the bottom bracket shell.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the 10mm hex bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo recommends a 42-60Nm torque \u2013 we\u2019d advise aiming towards the lower end of the scale, while making sure the crankset is free of play.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t forget the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the bearing clip on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Locate one hole, then use a needlenose plier to guide the clip into the second hole.<\/p>\nHow to replace a three-piece crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing this square-taper crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Three-piece cranksets comprise of two crank arms and a separate bottom bracket unit, which contains the crank spindle. There are two types of interface \u2013 square-taper or splined. A number of splined interfaces exist but Octalink and ISIS are the most common.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n Apply grease to the spindle, the splines of the crank arm and on the inside of the threads.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> In goes the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the crank arm that doesn\u2019t contain the main crank bolt \u2013 on this SRAM Rival crank, this is the non-driveside.<\/p>\n
You may need to use a rubber mallet to tap it into place. Make sure you refit any washers or seals.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you fit the driveside 180 degrees from the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the opposing crank arm. It can be a little fiddly making sure it is correctly positioned 180 degrees from the non-driveside. We\u2019d recommend holding onto the arm as you initially tighten the main crank bolt.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Tighten the crank bolt to the manufacturer\u2019s recommended spec \u2013 a high 48-54Nm for this SRAM DUB crankset.<\/p>\n
Inspect for play.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Be careful to avoid rounding the small 2mm bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll need to adjust the preload if there is any play. Loosen the preload adjuster bolt and turn in the direction of the + arrow. Tighten until the edges of the preload collar touch.<\/p>\n
Do not over-tighten the preload adjuster, because you risk damaging the bottom bracket bearing. Inspect for play.<\/p>\nHow to remove a Campagnolo UltraTorque crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Campagnolo cranksets differ from other manufacturers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
There are two types of Campagnolo cranks \u2013 UltraTorque and PowerTorque.<\/p>\n
The PowerTorque standard is now largely defunct, so we\u2019ll be concentrating on UltraTorque here.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The system uses a Hirth joint.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo cranks differ from other manufacturers in that they are a two-piece system. The spindle uses a Hirth joint \u2013 this sees the spindle split in the middle with a series of interlocking teeth.<\/p>\n
Unlike other manufacturers, where the bottom bracket bearings are a separate unit, bearings on Campagnolo systems are pressed directly onto the spindle.<\/p>\n
Like a self-extracting design, a single crank bolt holds both arms together.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long-reach 10mm hex key is the only tool that may be unusual.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nNeedlenose pliers<\/li>\nLong-reach 10mm hex key<\/li>\nTorque wrench and 10mm socket<\/li>\nGrease<\/li>\nRag<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Remove the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll first need to remove the bearing clip retainer, which is located on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Use needlenose pliers to lift one side of the retainer, before removing the other.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The 10mm hex bolt hides inside the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Loosen the 10mm hex bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Take care when removing the bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The crank arm may need some wiggling to remove. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Make sure the wave washer comes off with the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
The 10mm crank bolt is located on the non-driveside on current 12-speed Campagnolo cranksets, as well as Ekar. However, it\u2019s located on the driveside for older generations.<\/p>\n
Loosen the bolt with a long-reach 10mm hex key.<\/p>\n
Note Super-Record cranks use a reverse-threaded titanium bolt.<\/p>\n
Once loosened, remove both crank arms.<\/p>\nHow to refit a Campagnolo crankset<\/h2>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Give everything a clean prior to refitting.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply a thin layer of grease to the spindle and the crank bolt \u2013 we recommend Campagnolo Professional Grease.<\/p>\n
Install the driveside crank arm and then the non-driveside. Push the two arms together so that the geared teeth of the Hirth joint engage together. This can be fiddly.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You should feel the geared teeth contact each other from inside the bottom bracket shell.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the 10mm hex bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo recommends a 42-60Nm torque \u2013 we\u2019d advise aiming towards the lower end of the scale, while making sure the crankset is free of play.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t forget the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the bearing clip on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Locate one hole, then use a needlenose plier to guide the clip into the second hole.<\/p>\nHow to replace a three-piece crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing this square-taper crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Three-piece cranksets comprise of two crank arms and a separate bottom bracket unit, which contains the crank spindle. There are two types of interface \u2013 square-taper or splined. A number of splined interfaces exist but Octalink and ISIS are the most common.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n Install the crank arm that doesn\u2019t contain the main crank bolt \u2013 on this SRAM Rival crank, this is the non-driveside.<\/p>\n You may need to use a rubber mallet to tap it into place. Make sure you refit any washers or seals.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Make sure you fit the driveside 180 degrees from the non-driveside.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the opposing crank arm. It can be a little fiddly making sure it is correctly positioned 180 degrees from the non-driveside. We\u2019d recommend holding onto the arm as you initially tighten the main crank bolt.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Tighten the crank bolt to the manufacturer\u2019s recommended spec \u2013 a high 48-54Nm for this SRAM DUB crankset.<\/p>\n
Inspect for play.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Be careful to avoid rounding the small 2mm bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll need to adjust the preload if there is any play. Loosen the preload adjuster bolt and turn in the direction of the + arrow. Tighten until the edges of the preload collar touch.<\/p>\n
Do not over-tighten the preload adjuster, because you risk damaging the bottom bracket bearing. Inspect for play.<\/p>\nHow to remove a Campagnolo UltraTorque crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Campagnolo cranksets differ from other manufacturers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
There are two types of Campagnolo cranks \u2013 UltraTorque and PowerTorque.<\/p>\n
The PowerTorque standard is now largely defunct, so we\u2019ll be concentrating on UltraTorque here.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The system uses a Hirth joint.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo cranks differ from other manufacturers in that they are a two-piece system. The spindle uses a Hirth joint \u2013 this sees the spindle split in the middle with a series of interlocking teeth.<\/p>\n
Unlike other manufacturers, where the bottom bracket bearings are a separate unit, bearings on Campagnolo systems are pressed directly onto the spindle.<\/p>\n
Like a self-extracting design, a single crank bolt holds both arms together.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long-reach 10mm hex key is the only tool that may be unusual.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nNeedlenose pliers<\/li>\nLong-reach 10mm hex key<\/li>\nTorque wrench and 10mm socket<\/li>\nGrease<\/li>\nRag<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Remove the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll first need to remove the bearing clip retainer, which is located on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Use needlenose pliers to lift one side of the retainer, before removing the other.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The 10mm hex bolt hides inside the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Loosen the 10mm hex bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Take care when removing the bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The crank arm may need some wiggling to remove. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Make sure the wave washer comes off with the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
The 10mm crank bolt is located on the non-driveside on current 12-speed Campagnolo cranksets, as well as Ekar. However, it\u2019s located on the driveside for older generations.<\/p>\n
Loosen the bolt with a long-reach 10mm hex key.<\/p>\n
Note Super-Record cranks use a reverse-threaded titanium bolt.<\/p>\n
Once loosened, remove both crank arms.<\/p>\nHow to refit a Campagnolo crankset<\/h2>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Give everything a clean prior to refitting.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply a thin layer of grease to the spindle and the crank bolt \u2013 we recommend Campagnolo Professional Grease.<\/p>\n
Install the driveside crank arm and then the non-driveside. Push the two arms together so that the geared teeth of the Hirth joint engage together. This can be fiddly.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You should feel the geared teeth contact each other from inside the bottom bracket shell.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the 10mm hex bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo recommends a 42-60Nm torque \u2013 we\u2019d advise aiming towards the lower end of the scale, while making sure the crankset is free of play.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t forget the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the bearing clip on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Locate one hole, then use a needlenose plier to guide the clip into the second hole.<\/p>\nHow to replace a three-piece crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing this square-taper crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Three-piece cranksets comprise of two crank arms and a separate bottom bracket unit, which contains the crank spindle. There are two types of interface \u2013 square-taper or splined. A number of splined interfaces exist but Octalink and ISIS are the most common.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n Install the opposing crank arm. It can be a little fiddly making sure it is correctly positioned 180 degrees from the non-driveside. We\u2019d recommend holding onto the arm as you initially tighten the main crank bolt.<\/p>\nStep 4<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Tighten the crank bolt to the manufacturer\u2019s recommended spec \u2013 a high 48-54Nm for this SRAM DUB crankset.<\/p>\n
Inspect for play.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Be careful to avoid rounding the small 2mm bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll need to adjust the preload if there is any play. Loosen the preload adjuster bolt and turn in the direction of the + arrow. Tighten until the edges of the preload collar touch.<\/p>\n
Do not over-tighten the preload adjuster, because you risk damaging the bottom bracket bearing. Inspect for play.<\/p>\nHow to remove a Campagnolo UltraTorque crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Campagnolo cranksets differ from other manufacturers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
There are two types of Campagnolo cranks \u2013 UltraTorque and PowerTorque.<\/p>\n
The PowerTorque standard is now largely defunct, so we\u2019ll be concentrating on UltraTorque here.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The system uses a Hirth joint.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo cranks differ from other manufacturers in that they are a two-piece system. The spindle uses a Hirth joint \u2013 this sees the spindle split in the middle with a series of interlocking teeth.<\/p>\n
Unlike other manufacturers, where the bottom bracket bearings are a separate unit, bearings on Campagnolo systems are pressed directly onto the spindle.<\/p>\n
Like a self-extracting design, a single crank bolt holds both arms together.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long-reach 10mm hex key is the only tool that may be unusual.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nNeedlenose pliers<\/li>\nLong-reach 10mm hex key<\/li>\nTorque wrench and 10mm socket<\/li>\nGrease<\/li>\nRag<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Remove the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll first need to remove the bearing clip retainer, which is located on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Use needlenose pliers to lift one side of the retainer, before removing the other.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The 10mm hex bolt hides inside the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Loosen the 10mm hex bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Take care when removing the bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The crank arm may need some wiggling to remove. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Make sure the wave washer comes off with the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
The 10mm crank bolt is located on the non-driveside on current 12-speed Campagnolo cranksets, as well as Ekar. However, it\u2019s located on the driveside for older generations.<\/p>\n
Loosen the bolt with a long-reach 10mm hex key.<\/p>\n
Note Super-Record cranks use a reverse-threaded titanium bolt.<\/p>\n
Once loosened, remove both crank arms.<\/p>\nHow to refit a Campagnolo crankset<\/h2>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Give everything a clean prior to refitting.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply a thin layer of grease to the spindle and the crank bolt \u2013 we recommend Campagnolo Professional Grease.<\/p>\n
Install the driveside crank arm and then the non-driveside. Push the two arms together so that the geared teeth of the Hirth joint engage together. This can be fiddly.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You should feel the geared teeth contact each other from inside the bottom bracket shell.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the 10mm hex bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo recommends a 42-60Nm torque \u2013 we\u2019d advise aiming towards the lower end of the scale, while making sure the crankset is free of play.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t forget the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the bearing clip on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Locate one hole, then use a needlenose plier to guide the clip into the second hole.<\/p>\nHow to replace a three-piece crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing this square-taper crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Three-piece cranksets comprise of two crank arms and a separate bottom bracket unit, which contains the crank spindle. There are two types of interface \u2013 square-taper or splined. A number of splined interfaces exist but Octalink and ISIS are the most common.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n Tighten the crank bolt to the manufacturer\u2019s recommended spec \u2013 a high 48-54Nm for this SRAM DUB crankset.<\/p>\n Inspect for play.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Be careful to avoid rounding the small 2mm bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll need to adjust the preload if there is any play. Loosen the preload adjuster bolt and turn in the direction of the + arrow. Tighten until the edges of the preload collar touch.<\/p>\n
Do not over-tighten the preload adjuster, because you risk damaging the bottom bracket bearing. Inspect for play.<\/p>\nHow to remove a Campagnolo UltraTorque crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Campagnolo cranksets differ from other manufacturers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
There are two types of Campagnolo cranks \u2013 UltraTorque and PowerTorque.<\/p>\n
The PowerTorque standard is now largely defunct, so we\u2019ll be concentrating on UltraTorque here.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The system uses a Hirth joint.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo cranks differ from other manufacturers in that they are a two-piece system. The spindle uses a Hirth joint \u2013 this sees the spindle split in the middle with a series of interlocking teeth.<\/p>\n
Unlike other manufacturers, where the bottom bracket bearings are a separate unit, bearings on Campagnolo systems are pressed directly onto the spindle.<\/p>\n
Like a self-extracting design, a single crank bolt holds both arms together.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long-reach 10mm hex key is the only tool that may be unusual.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nNeedlenose pliers<\/li>\nLong-reach 10mm hex key<\/li>\nTorque wrench and 10mm socket<\/li>\nGrease<\/li>\nRag<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Remove the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll first need to remove the bearing clip retainer, which is located on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Use needlenose pliers to lift one side of the retainer, before removing the other.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The 10mm hex bolt hides inside the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Loosen the 10mm hex bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Take care when removing the bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The crank arm may need some wiggling to remove. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Make sure the wave washer comes off with the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
The 10mm crank bolt is located on the non-driveside on current 12-speed Campagnolo cranksets, as well as Ekar. However, it\u2019s located on the driveside for older generations.<\/p>\n
Loosen the bolt with a long-reach 10mm hex key.<\/p>\n
Note Super-Record cranks use a reverse-threaded titanium bolt.<\/p>\n
Once loosened, remove both crank arms.<\/p>\nHow to refit a Campagnolo crankset<\/h2>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Give everything a clean prior to refitting.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply a thin layer of grease to the spindle and the crank bolt \u2013 we recommend Campagnolo Professional Grease.<\/p>\n
Install the driveside crank arm and then the non-driveside. Push the two arms together so that the geared teeth of the Hirth joint engage together. This can be fiddly.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You should feel the geared teeth contact each other from inside the bottom bracket shell.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the 10mm hex bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo recommends a 42-60Nm torque \u2013 we\u2019d advise aiming towards the lower end of the scale, while making sure the crankset is free of play.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t forget the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the bearing clip on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Locate one hole, then use a needlenose plier to guide the clip into the second hole.<\/p>\nHow to replace a three-piece crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing this square-taper crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Three-piece cranksets comprise of two crank arms and a separate bottom bracket unit, which contains the crank spindle. There are two types of interface \u2013 square-taper or splined. A number of splined interfaces exist but Octalink and ISIS are the most common.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n You\u2019ll need to adjust the preload if there is any play. Loosen the preload adjuster bolt and turn in the direction of the + arrow. Tighten until the edges of the preload collar touch.<\/p>\n Do not over-tighten the preload adjuster, because you risk damaging the bottom bracket bearing. Inspect for play.<\/p>\nHow to remove a Campagnolo UltraTorque crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Campagnolo cranksets differ from other manufacturers.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
There are two types of Campagnolo cranks \u2013 UltraTorque and PowerTorque.<\/p>\n
The PowerTorque standard is now largely defunct, so we\u2019ll be concentrating on UltraTorque here.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The system uses a Hirth joint.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo cranks differ from other manufacturers in that they are a two-piece system. The spindle uses a Hirth joint \u2013 this sees the spindle split in the middle with a series of interlocking teeth.<\/p>\n
Unlike other manufacturers, where the bottom bracket bearings are a separate unit, bearings on Campagnolo systems are pressed directly onto the spindle.<\/p>\n
Like a self-extracting design, a single crank bolt holds both arms together.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long-reach 10mm hex key is the only tool that may be unusual.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nNeedlenose pliers<\/li>\nLong-reach 10mm hex key<\/li>\nTorque wrench and 10mm socket<\/li>\nGrease<\/li>\nRag<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Remove the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll first need to remove the bearing clip retainer, which is located on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Use needlenose pliers to lift one side of the retainer, before removing the other.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The 10mm hex bolt hides inside the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Loosen the 10mm hex bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Take care when removing the bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The crank arm may need some wiggling to remove. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Make sure the wave washer comes off with the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
The 10mm crank bolt is located on the non-driveside on current 12-speed Campagnolo cranksets, as well as Ekar. However, it\u2019s located on the driveside for older generations.<\/p>\n
Loosen the bolt with a long-reach 10mm hex key.<\/p>\n
Note Super-Record cranks use a reverse-threaded titanium bolt.<\/p>\n
Once loosened, remove both crank arms.<\/p>\nHow to refit a Campagnolo crankset<\/h2>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Give everything a clean prior to refitting.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply a thin layer of grease to the spindle and the crank bolt \u2013 we recommend Campagnolo Professional Grease.<\/p>\n
Install the driveside crank arm and then the non-driveside. Push the two arms together so that the geared teeth of the Hirth joint engage together. This can be fiddly.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You should feel the geared teeth contact each other from inside the bottom bracket shell.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the 10mm hex bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo recommends a 42-60Nm torque \u2013 we\u2019d advise aiming towards the lower end of the scale, while making sure the crankset is free of play.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t forget the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the bearing clip on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Locate one hole, then use a needlenose plier to guide the clip into the second hole.<\/p>\nHow to replace a three-piece crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing this square-taper crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Three-piece cranksets comprise of two crank arms and a separate bottom bracket unit, which contains the crank spindle. There are two types of interface \u2013 square-taper or splined. A number of splined interfaces exist but Octalink and ISIS are the most common.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n There are two types of Campagnolo cranks \u2013 UltraTorque and PowerTorque.<\/p>\n The PowerTorque standard is now largely defunct, so we\u2019ll be concentrating on UltraTorque here.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> The system uses a Hirth joint.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo cranks differ from other manufacturers in that they are a two-piece system. The spindle uses a Hirth joint \u2013 this sees the spindle split in the middle with a series of interlocking teeth.<\/p>\n
Unlike other manufacturers, where the bottom bracket bearings are a separate unit, bearings on Campagnolo systems are pressed directly onto the spindle.<\/p>\n
Like a self-extracting design, a single crank bolt holds both arms together.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long-reach 10mm hex key is the only tool that may be unusual.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nNeedlenose pliers<\/li>\nLong-reach 10mm hex key<\/li>\nTorque wrench and 10mm socket<\/li>\nGrease<\/li>\nRag<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Remove the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll first need to remove the bearing clip retainer, which is located on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Use needlenose pliers to lift one side of the retainer, before removing the other.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The 10mm hex bolt hides inside the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Loosen the 10mm hex bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Take care when removing the bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The crank arm may need some wiggling to remove. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Make sure the wave washer comes off with the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
The 10mm crank bolt is located on the non-driveside on current 12-speed Campagnolo cranksets, as well as Ekar. However, it\u2019s located on the driveside for older generations.<\/p>\n
Loosen the bolt with a long-reach 10mm hex key.<\/p>\n
Note Super-Record cranks use a reverse-threaded titanium bolt.<\/p>\n
Once loosened, remove both crank arms.<\/p>\nHow to refit a Campagnolo crankset<\/h2>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Give everything a clean prior to refitting.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply a thin layer of grease to the spindle and the crank bolt \u2013 we recommend Campagnolo Professional Grease.<\/p>\n
Install the driveside crank arm and then the non-driveside. Push the two arms together so that the geared teeth of the Hirth joint engage together. This can be fiddly.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You should feel the geared teeth contact each other from inside the bottom bracket shell.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the 10mm hex bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo recommends a 42-60Nm torque \u2013 we\u2019d advise aiming towards the lower end of the scale, while making sure the crankset is free of play.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t forget the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the bearing clip on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Locate one hole, then use a needlenose plier to guide the clip into the second hole.<\/p>\nHow to replace a three-piece crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing this square-taper crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Three-piece cranksets comprise of two crank arms and a separate bottom bracket unit, which contains the crank spindle. There are two types of interface \u2013 square-taper or splined. A number of splined interfaces exist but Octalink and ISIS are the most common.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n Campagnolo cranks differ from other manufacturers in that they are a two-piece system. The spindle uses a Hirth joint \u2013 this sees the spindle split in the middle with a series of interlocking teeth.<\/p>\n Unlike other manufacturers, where the bottom bracket bearings are a separate unit, bearings on Campagnolo systems are pressed directly onto the spindle.<\/p>\n Like a self-extracting design, a single crank bolt holds both arms together.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> A long-reach 10mm hex key is the only tool that may be unusual.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n\nNeedlenose pliers<\/li>\nLong-reach 10mm hex key<\/li>\nTorque wrench and 10mm socket<\/li>\nGrease<\/li>\nRag<\/li>\nRubber mallet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Remove the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
You\u2019ll first need to remove the bearing clip retainer, which is located on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Use needlenose pliers to lift one side of the retainer, before removing the other.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The 10mm hex bolt hides inside the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Loosen the 10mm hex bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Take care when removing the bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The crank arm may need some wiggling to remove. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Make sure the wave washer comes off with the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
The 10mm crank bolt is located on the non-driveside on current 12-speed Campagnolo cranksets, as well as Ekar. However, it\u2019s located on the driveside for older generations.<\/p>\n
Loosen the bolt with a long-reach 10mm hex key.<\/p>\n
Note Super-Record cranks use a reverse-threaded titanium bolt.<\/p>\n
Once loosened, remove both crank arms.<\/p>\nHow to refit a Campagnolo crankset<\/h2>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Give everything a clean prior to refitting.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply a thin layer of grease to the spindle and the crank bolt \u2013 we recommend Campagnolo Professional Grease.<\/p>\n
Install the driveside crank arm and then the non-driveside. Push the two arms together so that the geared teeth of the Hirth joint engage together. This can be fiddly.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You should feel the geared teeth contact each other from inside the bottom bracket shell.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the 10mm hex bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo recommends a 42-60Nm torque \u2013 we\u2019d advise aiming towards the lower end of the scale, while making sure the crankset is free of play.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t forget the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the bearing clip on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Locate one hole, then use a needlenose plier to guide the clip into the second hole.<\/p>\nHow to replace a three-piece crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing this square-taper crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Three-piece cranksets comprise of two crank arms and a separate bottom bracket unit, which contains the crank spindle. There are two types of interface \u2013 square-taper or splined. A number of splined interfaces exist but Octalink and ISIS are the most common.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n You\u2019ll first need to remove the bearing clip retainer, which is located on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Use needlenose pliers to lift one side of the retainer, before removing the other.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n <\/i>\n \n \n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The 10mm hex bolt hides inside the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Loosen the 10mm hex bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Take care when removing the bolt. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n The crank arm may need some wiggling to remove. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n \n \n\n\n \n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n <\/source>\n \n<\/picture><\/div> \n \n \n Make sure the wave washer comes off with the non-driveside crank arm. <\/span>\n <\/figcaption>\n \n Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i>\n <\/span>\n<\/div>\n\n <\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n <\/div>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
The 10mm crank bolt is located on the non-driveside on current 12-speed Campagnolo cranksets, as well as Ekar. However, it\u2019s located on the driveside for older generations.<\/p>\n
Loosen the bolt with a long-reach 10mm hex key.<\/p>\n
Note Super-Record cranks use a reverse-threaded titanium bolt.<\/p>\n
Once loosened, remove both crank arms.<\/p>\nHow to refit a Campagnolo crankset<\/h2>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Give everything a clean prior to refitting.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply a thin layer of grease to the spindle and the crank bolt \u2013 we recommend Campagnolo Professional Grease.<\/p>\n
Install the driveside crank arm and then the non-driveside. Push the two arms together so that the geared teeth of the Hirth joint engage together. This can be fiddly.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You should feel the geared teeth contact each other from inside the bottom bracket shell.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the 10mm hex bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo recommends a 42-60Nm torque \u2013 we\u2019d advise aiming towards the lower end of the scale, while making sure the crankset is free of play.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t forget the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the bearing clip on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Locate one hole, then use a needlenose plier to guide the clip into the second hole.<\/p>\nHow to replace a three-piece crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing this square-taper crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Three-piece cranksets comprise of two crank arms and a separate bottom bracket unit, which contains the crank spindle. There are two types of interface \u2013 square-taper or splined. A number of splined interfaces exist but Octalink and ISIS are the most common.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n The 10mm crank bolt is located on the non-driveside on current 12-speed Campagnolo cranksets, as well as Ekar. However, it\u2019s located on the driveside for older generations.<\/p>\n Loosen the bolt with a long-reach 10mm hex key.<\/p>\n Note Super-Record cranks use a reverse-threaded titanium bolt.<\/p>\n Once loosened, remove both crank arms.<\/p>\nHow to refit a Campagnolo crankset<\/h2>\nStep 1<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Give everything a clean prior to refitting.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Apply a thin layer of grease to the spindle and the crank bolt \u2013 we recommend Campagnolo Professional Grease.<\/p>\n
Install the driveside crank arm and then the non-driveside. Push the two arms together so that the geared teeth of the Hirth joint engage together. This can be fiddly.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You should feel the geared teeth contact each other from inside the bottom bracket shell.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the 10mm hex bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo recommends a 42-60Nm torque \u2013 we\u2019d advise aiming towards the lower end of the scale, while making sure the crankset is free of play.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t forget the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the bearing clip on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Locate one hole, then use a needlenose plier to guide the clip into the second hole.<\/p>\nHow to replace a three-piece crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing this square-taper crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Three-piece cranksets comprise of two crank arms and a separate bottom bracket unit, which contains the crank spindle. There are two types of interface \u2013 square-taper or splined. A number of splined interfaces exist but Octalink and ISIS are the most common.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n Apply a thin layer of grease to the spindle and the crank bolt \u2013 we recommend Campagnolo Professional Grease.<\/p>\n Install the driveside crank arm and then the non-driveside. Push the two arms together so that the geared teeth of the Hirth joint engage together. This can be fiddly.<\/p>\nStep 2<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> You should feel the geared teeth contact each other from inside the bottom bracket shell.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the 10mm hex bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo recommends a 42-60Nm torque \u2013 we\u2019d advise aiming towards the lower end of the scale, while making sure the crankset is free of play.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t forget the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the bearing clip on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Locate one hole, then use a needlenose plier to guide the clip into the second hole.<\/p>\nHow to replace a three-piece crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing this square-taper crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Three-piece cranksets comprise of two crank arms and a separate bottom bracket unit, which contains the crank spindle. There are two types of interface \u2013 square-taper or splined. A number of splined interfaces exist but Octalink and ISIS are the most common.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n Install the 10mm hex bolt.<\/p>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Torque the bolt.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Campagnolo recommends a 42-60Nm torque \u2013 we\u2019d advise aiming towards the lower end of the scale, while making sure the crankset is free of play.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t forget the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the bearing clip on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Locate one hole, then use a needlenose plier to guide the clip into the second hole.<\/p>\nHow to replace a three-piece crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing this square-taper crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Three-piece cranksets comprise of two crank arms and a separate bottom bracket unit, which contains the crank spindle. There are two types of interface \u2013 square-taper or splined. A number of splined interfaces exist but Octalink and ISIS are the most common.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n Campagnolo recommends a 42-60Nm torque \u2013 we\u2019d advise aiming towards the lower end of the scale, while making sure the crankset is free of play.<\/p>\nStep 3<\/h4>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> Don\u2019t forget the retaining clip.<\/span><\/figcaption> Kaden Gardener \/ Our Media<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Install the bearing clip on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Locate one hole, then use a needlenose plier to guide the clip into the second hole.<\/p>\nHow to replace a three-piece crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing this square-taper crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Three-piece cranksets comprise of two crank arms and a separate bottom bracket unit, which contains the crank spindle. There are two types of interface \u2013 square-taper or splined. A number of splined interfaces exist but Octalink and ISIS are the most common.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n Install the bearing clip on the driveside bottom bracket cup. Locate one hole, then use a needlenose plier to guide the clip into the second hole.<\/p>\nHow to replace a three-piece crankset<\/h2>\n\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture>\n<\/div><\/i> We\u2019ll be removing this square-taper crankset.<\/span><\/figcaption> Steve Sayers \/ Our Media <\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
Three-piece cranksets comprise of two crank arms and a separate bottom bracket unit, which contains the crank spindle. There are two types of interface \u2013 square-taper or splined. A number of splined interfaces exist but Octalink and ISIS are the most common.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n Stainless Steel Wedge Anchor Three-piece cranksets comprise of two crank arms and a separate bottom bracket unit, which contains the crank spindle. There are two types of interface \u2013 square-taper or splined. A number of splined interfaces exist but Octalink and ISIS are the most common.<\/p>\nTools required<\/h3>\n\n \n \n \n \n 