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Gel manicures changed the game for long-lasting, super-shiny nails, but since their rise in popularity in the mid-2000s, they've also endured their fair share of controversy, partly due to the UV lights required to dry and cure the nail polish. A new study published in Nature Communications found that the UV lights commonly used in gel manicures can damage DNA and cause cell mutations. Nail Table Hand Rest
The study used both human and mouse subjects and exposed them to UV light in 20-minute increments. In the first 20-minute exposure, they found that anywhere from 20 to 30 percent of cells died; after three 20-minute sessions, about 65 to 70 percent died.
So, what does this mean? Are UV light for nails safe? Should you cancel your upcoming gel appointment and swear off the salon service forever? Not necessarily — though you should practice safe sun at the nail salon just as you do each day. To answer all your pressing questions, we reached out to Shari Marchbein, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City, and Caren Campbell, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in the Bay Area. Here's what the experts say.
This isn't the first study to investigate a link between the increased risk of skin cancer and UV gel manicure lights, but it does confirm that you should approach gel manicures with caution. "The link between UV exposure and skin cancer has been known for a very long time," says Dr. Caren Campbell. "UV light in our environment and UV light for tanning beds is known to increase our risk of skin cancer, including melanoma, the most deadly form of skin cancer, as well as squamous and basal cell skin cancers." UV manicure lights are no different. "These studies likely keep popping up because the public keeps using them," she explains. “We already know it, but the more evidence we have that it is, in fact, true, the more we hope the public will listen and protect themselves.”
Skin cancer doesn't happen overnight, so this study presents compelling information about the associated risks. "[The study is] showing reactive oxygen species are being formed and that DNA changes are occurring, which [may lead] to skin cancer over time," explains Dr. Campbell.
Dr. Shari Marchbein agrees that it shares valuable insights, especially for young people getting gel manicures more frequently. "There is a potential that years of exposure can cause skin cancer," she shares.
Not necessarily, but the risk depends on frequency, so you may want to go less often. "If you're going once in a while, it's probably not a big deal," says Dr. Marchbein. Your hands aren't under the UV light for a significant period of time during your service; if you've had a gel manicure, you know that you're not under a light for 20 minutes or longer like the study participants, but rather for a few minutes as your polish dries. "You get more UV damage just walking around every day because most of us aren't walking around with our hands slathered in sunscreen," Dr. Marchbein adds.
However, repeated exposure to UV nail lamps does increase your risk. "Potentially repeated exposures over many years can lead to skin cancer on the nail, around the nail bed, around the fingers," says Dr. Marchbein. "If you do gel manicures from the time that you're 17 onward, that's a lot of UV exposure over a lifetime." Even though you're exposed to the UV light for a short amount of time, she recommends limiting the number of gel manicures you do in a year. “Going twice a month increases your risk of potential damage.”
This is definitely a spot you want to pay attention to both in and out of the nail salon. "Skin cancers are most common on sun-exposed sites of the body, so this includes hands," shares Dr. Campbell. "If you notice a non-healing spot that is sore to the touch, bleeding, rough, or won't resolve, get it checked." Melanoma, the deadliest form of skin cancer, presents with a colored spot or streak; Dr. Campbell says it can appear more like a "pink bump that won't resolve." If you're not already scheduling regular skin checks with your dermatologist, it's time to start!
"If you go more frequently, put on sunscreen and wear gloves," advises Dr. Marchbein. She recommends using a broad-spectrum SPF of at least 30 but advises opting for an SPF of 50 or higher since you're applying a smaller amount to your hands and fingers; just make sure to reapply after soaking your nails or when you wash your hands.
Dr. Marchbein and Dr. Campbell also recommend wearing manicure gloves with UPF (Ultraviolet Protection Factor created to protect skin during gel manicure services. However, since the gloves are fingerless, you'll want to be sure your nail beds are adequately covered with SPF.
That week-plus of wear and shiny color is hard to beat, but there are plenty of alternatives to a gel manicure. "Gel manicures by themselves are damaging to nails, causing thinning and trauma to the nails, so this is just yet another reason to avoid them," shares Dr. Campbell. As an alternative, Dr. Marchbein is a fan of Essie's at-home Gel Couture polish system. The press-on nail industry has really upped its game in recent years, too, so you can easily glue on a set for a similar look without a salon visit or an at-home UV light kit – though glue can also be damaging nails, so tread lightly.
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